The Mt Matavanu eruptions between 1905 and 1911 created a moonscape in Savai’i’s northeastern corner as a flow of lava 10m to 150m thick rolled through plantations and villages. The Main North Coast Rd crosses this dark, fractured lava field and provides access to several interesting sites.
The modern, iron-roofed fale of the village of Mauga encircle a shallow, almost perfectly circular crater populated by banana palms. The access road is guarded by an enormous Catholic church. Approach a villager if you’d like to be shown around.
In Sale’aula, 5km north of Mauga, are several lava-ruined churches . On the western side of the ‘information fale’ is a trail leading to the LMS Church , where 2m of lava flowed through the front door and was eerily imprinted by corrugated iron when the roof collapsed. Behind it a short trail leads over an expanse of twisted black rock stretching to the sea. North of the church is the Virgin’s Grave , which purportedly marks the burial place of a girl so pure that the lava flowed around her grave, leaving it untouched.
