The town’s three main markets are a lively cultural experience in themselves, especially the main market. This dirty, noisy, 24-hour bazaar is almost always jammed with locals lugging vegetables, meat and groceries, and devouring deep-fried delights. Family members of stallholders take turns to sleep overnight to make sure they don’t lose their spot. Pretty much everything is sold here, from hair dye to bananas. Craft hunters will find siapo (decorated bark cloth), woodcarvings, coconut-shell jewellery, kirikiti (cricket) bats and balls, lava-lava (wraparound sarongs) and T-shirts. The ambience is somewhat enlivened by the fume-ridden chaos of the adjacent bus station.