Dating from about AD 1000, Quilmes was a complex indigenous urban settlement that occupied about 30 hectares and housed as many as 5000 people. The inhabitants survived contact with the Inca, which occurred from about AD 1480 onward, but could not outlast the siege of the Spaniards, who in 1667 deported the remaining 2000 to Buenos Aires.
Quilmes’ thick walls underscore its defensive purpose, but clearly this was more than just a pucará (walled city). Dense construction radiates from the central nucleus. For revealing views of the extent of the ruins, climb as high as you can; there are trails on either side up to the remains of watchtowers that also offer great perspectives. Be prepared for intense sun with no shade, and a large fly population keen on exploring your facial orifices. Guides at the entrance will offer an explanation and/or tour for a tip. Don't expect accurate archaeological analysis.
Legal battles between the Diaguita community and the government mean the hotel and restaurant are long closed. In theory, the museum at the site may one day reopen: here's hoping, for it's difficult to interpret the ruins without it. Friendly folk selling local ceramics also sell cold drinks and will look after your bags; there’s also a place at the main road junction that will do it, saving you lugging them.
Buses between Cafayate and Santa María or Tafí drop off at the junction; from there it’s a 5km walk or hitchhike to the ruins. Alternatively, get off at Amaicha del Valle, where a remise will charge around AR$160 one way to the ruins: bargain to get a decent price including waiting time. Often a few people want to go, so you can share costs.
Sebastián Pastrana runs good four-hour tours from Amaicha (AR$120), departing 10:30am and 3:30pm.
A remise from Cafayate or Santa María is also an option and tours run from Cafayate and Tafí.
