Topped by twin towers and surrounded by elegant gardens, Justo José de Urquiza’s ostentatious pink palace is 33km west of Concepción. Set around an arched patio, with a walled garden out back, it was built partly to show up Urquiza’s arch rival in Buenos Aires, Juan Manuel de Rosas, and partly to show the power and wealth of Entre Ríos province. Local caudillo (provincial strongman) Urquiza was largely responsible for Rosas’ 1852 downfall and the eventual adoption of Argentina’s modern constitution.
Sometime allies such as Domingo Sarmiento and Bartolomé Mitre supped at Urquiza’s 8.5m dining-room table and slept in the palatial bedrooms. The bedroom in which Urquiza was murdered by a mob sent by Ricardo López Jordán is a permanent shrine, created by Urquiza’s wife.
From Concepción, Sarbimas or other remise companies will take up to four people there and back, including a two-hour wait, for AR$320. Another option is a tour – Turismo Pioneros will take two people for AR$180, including a guided visit. You could also jump off a Caseros-bound bus and walk 3km to the palace. There’s a mediocre restaurant and picturesque grounds for picnicking.
