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Beating the Bank: ATMs in Argentina & Chile
Since late July, the Argentine banking networks Link and Banelco have imposed ATM charges of 11.45 pesos (approximately US$3) on every withdrawal by foreign customers. As banks struggle in the current financial crisis, of course, it’s unsurprising to see them try to milk every possible penny out o
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Argentine Monkeys Howl Back!
Scattered open-water lagoons lie within an endless horizon of marshland grasses in Esteros del Iberá. Photo © Miguel Vieira, licensed Creative Commons Attribution.My Moon colleague Christopher Baker’s recent post on Costa Rican howler monkeys has inspired me to respond from the Southern Cone.
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Torture Tours: A Grim Preservation of Argentine History
It’s hard to imagine that, someday in the future, lines of solemn tourists might file through Abu Ghraib and Guantánamo. Thirty years ago, though, it would have seemed unthinkable that, in 2010, groups of Argentine and foreign visitors would tour Buenos Aires’s Escuela de Mecánica de la Armada, th
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Discover Argentina
Exploring high in Argentine Patagonia. Photo © Julián Rovagnati.
Argentina is a land of superlatives and extremes. A geographical jewel that owes its name — from the Latin root for silver — to Spanish settlers’ misguided quest for precious metals, it’s the world’s eighth-largest country, slightly
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Environmental Issues in Argentina
View of the Women’s Bridge at Puerto Madero Waterfront in Buenos Aires.Photo by David Berkowitz licensed Creative Commons Attribution.
Like other countries, Argentina suffers from environmental degradation, though not all indicators are negative. Aging diesel buses may be the primary culprit
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Sights in the Vicinity of San Juan de la Frontera
Pilgrims leave an astonishing assortment of license plates, model cars and houses, photographs, and other personal items that signify their gratitude when visiting the Difunta Correa Shrine. Photo © Ansilta Grizas, licensed Creative Commons Attribution No-Derivatives.
Local operators arrange
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Visiting the Capital City of Santa Fe in Argentina
Mesopotamia and the Paraná LittoralCapital of its province, the city of Santa Fe plays second fiddle to youthful Rosario in economics and culture, but it has a core of colonial monuments that no other nearby place can match. It also enjoys easy access to the middle Paraná islands, thanks to a seri
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Rosario: Argentina's Most Underrated City
RosarioPossibly Argentina’s most underrated city, the economic powerhouse of Rosario is an industrial city and a major port for grains from the pampa gringa, but it also boasts one of the country’s liveliest cultural scenes, with first-rate museums, art, theater, and live music. Among its many cre
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Visiting San Juan de la Frontera
Fountain in the Plaza 25 de Mayo. Photo © Gabriel Gallardo, licensed Creative Commons Attribution.
Cuyo and CórdobaSan Juan de la Frontera dates from 1562, but its modern aspect stems from repeated earthquakes. The event with the greatest impact—and not just seismically—was the 1944 temblor t
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Visiting Tigre near Buenos Aires
Canals at the fruit market near Tigre’s main port launch. Photo © Jesús Dehesa, licensed Creative Commons Attribution No-Derivatives.
After decades of decay, the flood-prone riverside city of Tigre itself seems to be experiencing a renaissance. The train stations are renovated, the stre
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Exploring Buenos Aires with Wayne Bernhardson
1. How would you describe the mystique that sets Buenos Aires apart from Europe and North America?
Buenos Aires is often, misleadingly, called the “Paris of the South” because of its concentration of Europhile architecture, but you can find plenty of mansard roofs in New York City as well, and nob
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Parque Provincial Ischigualasto
Cancha de Bochas (the Ball Court) in Parque Provincial Ischigualasto. Photo © Jorge Gobbi, licensed Creative Commons Attribution.
Nicknamed “Valle de la Luna” for the lunar landscapes formed from its colorless clay, reddish sandstone, and black volcanic ash, Parque Provincial Ischigualasto al
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Cerro Aconcagua: The Roof of the Americas
Cerro Aconcagua is the highest peak in the Americas. Photo © flaperval/123rf.
Approaching the Chilean border, Parque Provincial Aconcagua is the site of the province’s most prominent attraction—literally so, as the bulky 6,962-meter Cerro Aconcagua is the “The Roof of the Americas,” the highe
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Parque Nacional Sierra de las Quijadas
Sunset at Parque Nacional Sierra de las Quijadas. Photo © Dave Lonsdale
Evoking the red sandstone ravines of Utah’s Bryce Canyon, Parque Nacional Sierra de las Quijadas is rich in scenery, fossils, and pre-Columbian archaeological sites. In Lower Cretaceous times, about 120 million years ago,
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Plan a Trip to Mendoza, a Modern City in the Shadow of the Andes
Mendoza
At one end of the Andes’ busiest highway crossing, Mendoza gets a steady stream of international visitors but also has a flourishing domestic travel industry. Its biggest attraction, literally, is the formidable Andean range—symbolized by the hemisphere’s highest mountain, 6,962-meter Cerr
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Exploring the Río Mendoza Valley
Uspallata in late afternoon. Photo © sajatan, licensed Creative Commons Attribution No-Derivatives.
For locals, the upper Río Mendoza valley makes a nearby getaway, but almost everyone finds it a diverse recreational destination.
Cacheuta
Since the realignment of RN 7 (the Panamericana to Chi
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Valle de Uco Wineries
O. Fournier private room. Photo © David, licensed Creative Commons Attribution.
CuyoAbout an hour southwest of Mendoza, near the towns of Tupungato and Tunuyán, the Uco Valley is increasingly important, but its wineries are more scattered than those around Mendoza. That may well change, as it
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Gualeguaychú: The Biggest Party Town in Entre Ríos
An elaborate Carnaval float. Photo © Kevin Jones, licensed Creative Commons Attribution.
Entre Ríos’s biggest party town, Gualeguaychú hosts Argentina’s top Carnaval celebration—not quite Rio, but worthwhile if you’re in Buenos Aires instead of Brazil. Dating from 1783, it has a smattering of
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Visiting the Brazilian side of the Iguazú Falls from Argentina
The Iguaçu Falls, also known as Iguazu Falls. Photo © Daniel Wiedemann.
By consensus, the Brazilian side of the border offers the best panoramas of the falls, even if the Argentine side provides better close-ups. Fauna, flora, and services are similar on both sides, but the Brazilian side has
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Wineries in Mendoza's Maipú Department
Photo © Robert S. Donovan, licensed Creative Commons Attribution.
East of downtown Mendoza, Maipú department has a huge concentration of wineries, many of them open for tours and tasting. Weekday tours are the rule, but several are open Saturday morning and a handful on Saturday afternoon and
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