La Paz’s buzzing, frenetic markets are easily the highlight of any trip. It is here that the commerce and culture of this modern-day capital collide in a wonderful riot of honks, shrieks, smells, tastes and Kodachrome moments. There are open-air markets from Plaza Pérez Velasco uphill to the cemetery – past Mercado Lanza, and Plazas Eguino and Garita de Lima. The narrow cobblestone streets off Max Paredes are the center of the action. Locals call this section the Mercado Negro . Every day is market day in La Paz, but Saturdays are especially fun.
Especially interesting are the sections near Graneros (‘designer’ clothes), Tumusla and Isaac Tamayo (everything and anything), and between Santa Cruz and Sagárnaga (tools and building materials). The best place for electronics is along Eloy Salmón. Be especially careful when wandering around this part of town: it’s notorious for light fingers. It’s best to take a taxi here at night.
North of Plaza San Francisco, on Calle Figueroa, the Mercado Lanza is one of La Paz’s main food markets. It also houses the splendid Flower Market .