The major but near-forgotten ruins of Iskanwaya, on the western slopes of the Cordillera Real, sit in a cactus-filled canyon, perched 250m above the Río Llica. Thought to date from between 1145 and 1425, the site is attributed to the Mollu culture. This large citadel was built on two platforms and flanked by agricultural terraces and networks of irrigation canals. It contains more than 70 buildings, plus delicate walls, narrow streets, small plazas, storerooms, burial sites and niches.
While Iskanwaya isn’t exactly another Machu Picchu, the 13-hectare site is outwardly more impressive than Tiwanaku. For more information ask around Acuapata for Señor Jorge Albarracín, who is passionate about the area and the Iskanwaya ruins, or Marcelo Calamani, who can guide you to the ruins and speaks a little English. You can get in touch with them on the village telephone . For background reading, Iskanwaya: La Ciudadela que Sólo Vivía de Noche , by Hugo Boero Roja (1992), contains photos, maps and diagrams of the site, plus information on nearby villages.