Reflections on Living in Brazil, Part 2

A couple of weeks ago I received a comment from a reader, “flyingturtle,” who confessed that she and her husband were interested in:

1. Visiting Brazil
2. Considering maybe even moving to Brazil somewhere down the line.

She asked if I could write a post about “Quality of Life/Living in Brazil.” In my response, I promised her that I would since I think the topic is a particularly rich one – dauntingly rich, in fact, for the scope of a single blog post. Here is part two:

Quality of Life

Measuring “Quality of Life” in Brazil is an enterprise that is much more subjective than scientific. Like any place in the world, one’s quality of life can vary wildly depending on where you choose to live (for example, downtown São Paulo versus a fishing village on the breathtaking secluded northern coast of Alagoas) as well as what you do, how much money you make, your overall attitude and adaptability, and what your needs and expectations are.

Beyond a doubt, the biggest change that is affecting quality of life in Brazil today is the unprecedented and seemingly non-stop boom of the economy, which is having major repercussion on Brazilian society. While the benefits are manifold – rising salaries, job creation, improved standard of living, access to an increased number of goods and better services, and the ascension of around 40 million people out of poverty into the rungs of the lower middle class – there are downsides as well. Some of the most notable include rampant, unchecked development (both in urban centers and along Brazil’s once pristine coastline), erosion of traditional culture and ways of life, the rise of American-style consumerism, increasing pollution, and a glaring lack of adequate infrastructure (ex: the traffic situation in all Brazilian cities is completely out of hand).

In general, however, I would say that the list below covers some of the major advantages and disadvantages that impact quality of life in Brazil:

Advantages

• Nature. The sheer beauty and diversity of Brazil’s nature – which runs the gamut from stunning beaches and mountains to tropical rainforests – and the ease with which you can access and take advantage of it year-round.
• Climate. It can get a little hot; but there are no such things as hurricanes, tornadoes, blizzards, earthquakes, tsunamis and you NEVER have to wear thermal underwear.
• People. It’s hard to generalize, and things change from region to region and from big cities to isolated villages, yet overall Brazilians are an exceptionally warm, good-natured, affectionate, spontaneous, open, generous, and fun-loving group. For me, personally, Brazilians themselves are one of the main reasons I stick around – and I’m sure that most expats would concur.
• Culture. Once again, there are regional differences, but overall, despite encroaching globalization, Brazilian culture is incredibly rich and creative and seeps into pretty much every aspect of day-to-day life. The musicality is off the charts, but Brazilians also have a flair for the visual. As for the art of improvisation, it’s virtually a national trait. The often unsung cuisine – in its myriad variations – is pretty fantastic as well (the abundance of fresh fish, seafood, and especially fruit is jaw-dropping in its variety and extremely healthy).
• Lifestyle. Yet again, this depends on where you live and what you do, but overall, Brazilian lifestyle is one in which relaxing and enjoying one’s self is much more of a priority than working 80-hour weeks (not that Brazilians don’t work hard – but, in general, they don’t talk so much about their work, or define themselves by their careers). Yes, Brazilians get stressed (although they don’t admit it), but overall, they have the fine art of relaxation down to a T. Brazilian society is very casual and refreshingly laid-back and is a lot less focused on money, consumerism, and getting ahead. In general, people don’t have a lot of hang-ups and have a healthy sense of priorities. In most places, family, friends, and community still trump individualism.

Disadvantages

• Security. For me, personally, as for many other expats (and Brazilians) this is the one of the biggest downsides to living in Brazil. Hold-ups, muggings, pickpockets, carjackings, home robberies… all are common occurrences. Personally, I’ve been a victim of them – as has basically every Brazilian I know. Without being paranoid, you do have to be careful in Brazil in a way that you don’t in North America and Europe. You can never truly let your guard down (especially in cities) and night-time is often particularly tricky. Ultimately, there are a lot of small, but ever-present factors you must take into account to remain safe. These range from always considering the clothing you’re wearing and the belongings you’re carrying (i.e. cameras and/or laptops) to having to take taxis at night – even for short distances – instead of walking, and always, always keeping an eye on bags and pockets. While such precautions often become second-nature, the truth is that they ultimately curtail your personal freedom.
• Poverty. In recent years, the vast discrepancy between rich and poor in Brazil has diminished somewhat. Yet, Brazil is still a country of great extremes and poverty is still a major problem. For North Americans and Western Europeans, living in a society where poverty is such an issue – and so prevalent – can be difficult and unsettling. Like many Brazilians, expats either tend to wall themselves off in wealthier neighborhoods or closed condo complexes (which are on the rise) or else grow a “shell” which allows you to “normalize” the situation and (to a certain extent) naturalize and even ignore (or at least downplay it).
• Inefficiency. This is extremely relative and also varies enormously depending on the region and the context. In some places (São Paulo, Rio, the South) and in some segments, Brazil is very advanced, sophisticated and efficient – and the tendency is toward improvement. However, North Americans and Western Europeans used to their own well-oiled realities will also run up against their share of disorganization, poor service, long waits, and baroque bureaucracy, which can range from mildly frustrating to crazily infuriating.
• Rising Costs. This is a new one. Up until five years ago, it was considerably less expensive to live in Brazil – especially if (like me) you earned your living in U.S. dollars. In recent times, however, the booming economy has seen the real skyrocket, inflation levels rise, and prices – and living costs – go up, pretty much across the board. Although some Brazilians (mostly the wealthiest and poorest) are earning more, much of the new consumer boom is a result of people buying on credit, which underlines the fact that not everyone is able to keep pace with the escalating increases in the prices of housing, food, cars, services, (private) education, and leisure activities (including good, old, trusty bem geladas – iced cold beer). In a recent blog post, I noted the fact that the costs of living in Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo, and Brasília are now all higher than that of New York City. The upshot is that to enjoy life here now comes with a considerably heftier price tag.