Right on prime waterfront, the massive warehouses and rusting trains at this historic railyard would make an ideal home for hip bars and eateries, museums and galleries, and shady walkways, not unlike Belém's excellent Estação das Docas. That's long been the plan, but there's little to show for a decade-plus of planning and promises. For now, visitors can wander the hot hulking grounds, browse souvenir stands and book a river tour, imagining what was – and what could be.
