While the Centro de Abastecimento do Estado da Guanabara doesn’t have quite the same ring to it as ‘Ipanema beach,’ this voluminous market packs a treasure trove of fruits, vegetables, meats, fish, cheeses, flowers and spices. And while the 350-plus shops are mostly a wholesale affair (hence the 1am opening time), the real reason to come here is for lunch, with a number of good and decidedly unfussy restaurants spread around the four-story building.
