The jewel of northern Araucanía’s national parks, Reserva Nacional Malalcahuello-Nalcas is a combined reserve of 303 sq km just north of the town of Malalcahuello, en route to Lonquimay, and extends almost to the border of Parque Nacional Tolhuaca. Though off the main park circuit, Malalcahuello-Nalcas offers one of the most dramatic landscapes in all of Sur Chico, a charcoal desertscape of ash and sand that looks like the Sahara with a nicotine addiction.
Though not an ambitious hike, the trek to Cráter Navidad (two hours, 1.5km), which last blew on Christmas Day 1988, takes in this otherworldly atmosphere – not unlike Mars with its desolate red hues reflecting off the spoils of magma and ash – and the magnificent backdrop of Volcán Lonquimay, Volcán Tolhuaca and Volcán Callaqui off in the distance. Be sure to charge up your camera batteries before coming here.