An idyllic oasis of fruit trees, herbs and flowers can be found just outside the traditional Andean village of Toconao, located 38km south of San Pedro. The Quebrada de Jere , sometimes called Quebrada de Jeréz (Sherry Gorge) for its sweet water, nestles in a deep gash in the altiplano. Its cool stream begs visitors to slip off their hot boots and wade awhile, and its trees are heavy with higera (fig), membrillo (quince), pears and plums (which you’re not allowed to eat).