Turquoise lakes and the rusted hues of the steppe mark the rarely visited Reserva Nacional Jeinimeni 52km southwest of Chile Chico. Its unusual wonders range from cave paintings to foxes and flamingos. In the transition zone to the Patagonian steppe, it covers 1610 sq km. Through-hikers can link to Valle Chacabuco via a three-day mountain traverse; for details ask at Parque Nacional Patagonia.