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Visit Jericó, Colombia's Paisa Cowboy Outpost

TIME : 2016/2/16 15:07:18

Jericó and Jardín are two (colorfully painted) peas in the same pod. Both are fiercely traditional Paisa pueblos, and they won’t change for anybody. Although it is the closer of the two to Medellín, Jericó feels more remote, and less visited, and therein lies its charm.

Set on a gentle slope of a mountain overlooking a valley dotted with cattle ranches and farms of coffee, tomato, plantain, and cardamom, Jericó still is very much a Paisa cowboy outpost. Colombians know Jericó for two very different reasons. The first is its unique handicraft, the carriel, a shoulder bag made out of leather and cowhide that is a symbol of Paisa cowboy culture. The second is its homegrown saint, Laura Montoya, who was canonized in 2013.

The colorful Paisa town of Jericó. Photo © Flaperval/123rf.

The colorful Paisa town of Jericó. Photo © Flaperval/123rf.

Jericó is a pleasant place to hang one’s (cowboy) hat for a night, and its sleepy streets lined with brightly colored wooden balconies and doors are a playground for shutterbugs.

Shopping

Carrieles were used by arrieros (Paisa cowboys) for their horseback trips around Tierra Paisa.To find your very own carriel shoulder bag or other leather souvenir from Jericó, walk down Carrera 5. On the righthand side of the street are a couple of classic shops like Guarnieleria Jericó (Cra. 5 No. 5-35, tel. 4/852-3370, 9am-6pm daily) and Taller de Guarnielería & Talabartería (Cra. 5 No. 5-03, tel. 4/852-3128, cell tel. 311/716-9895, 9am-6pm daily). The classic carriel goes for about COP$130,000. Oddly, you probably won’t see many people other than tourists actually using these unique handbags. Carrieles were used by arrieros (Paisa cowboys) for their horseback trips around Tierra Paisa. These bags are accordion-like, with several divisions in them for carrying items like money, a lock of hair, a knife, or a candle. Some suspect that the name carriel is derived from the English “carry all,” while others say it comes from the French cartier, or handbag.

On the same street is a sweets store, Delicias del Cardamomo (Cra. 5 No. 2-128, tel. 4/852-5289, 9am-6pm daily) that sells cardamom candies, cardamom cookies, and plain old cardamom seeds. Cardamom is a relatively important crop in Jericó.


Excerpted from the First Edition of Moon Colombia.