For adventurous souls only, Cartagena's labyrinthine central market is both dirty and enthralling, an all-out assault on your senses. If it's marketable, it's for sale here: there are endless stalls of fruits and vegetables, meat and fish, and plenty of options to grab a quick bite or juice up on a chilled beverage. Don't wear flashy jewelry and pay close attention to your camera and wallet. Grab a taxi (COP$7000 from the old town) and explore away.
If you can find it, look for Cecilia's restaurant, which sometimes serves up river turtle, shark and cow's tongue (it's in the area known as Pescado Frito – ask and people can direct you). You won't likely buy anything here, but it's a fascinating glimpse into the daily lives of real cartagenos .