The quintessential site of the Mid–Late Formative Period (c 1200–500 BC), Chavín de Huántar is the most intriguing of the many relatively independent, competitive ceremonial centers constructed throughout the central Andes. It is a phenomenal achievement of ancient construction, with large temple-like structures aboveground and labyrinthine (now electronically lit) underground passageways. Although looters and a major landslide have affected the site, it is still intact enough to provide a full-bodied glimpse into one of Peru’s oldest complex societies.
Chavín is a series of older and newer temple arrangements built between 1200 BC and 500 BC, but most structures visible today came from a big building effort between 900 and 700 BC. In the middle is a massive central square, slightly sunken below ground level, which like the overall site has an intricate, extensive and well-engineered system of channels for drainage. From the square, a broad staircase leads up to the portal in front of the largest and most important building, called the Castillo, which has withstood some mighty earthquakes over the years. Built on three different levels of stone-and-mortar masonry (sometimes incorporating cut stone blocks), the walls here were at one time embellished with tenon heads (blocks carved to resemble human heads with animal or perhaps hallucinogen-induced characteristics backed by stone spikes for insertion into a wall). Only one of these remains in its original place, although the others may be seen in the local museum related to the site.
A series of tunnels underneath the Castillo are an exceptional feat of engineering, comprising a maze of complex corridors, ducts and chambers. In the heart of this complex is an exquisitely carved, 4.5m monolith of white granite known as the Lanzón de Chavín. In typical terrifying Chavín fashion, the low-relief carvings on the Lanzón represent a person with snakes radiating from his head and a ferocious set of fangs, most likely feline. The Lanzón, almost certainly an object of worship given its prominent, central placement in this ceremonial center, is sometimes referred to as the Smiling God – but its aura feels anything but friendly.
Several beguiling construction quirks, such as the strange positioning of water channels and the use of highly polished mineral mirrors to reflect light, led Stanford archaeologists to believe that the complex was used as an instrument of shock and awe. To instill fear in nonbelievers, priests manipulated sights and sounds. They blew on echoing Strombus trumpets, amplified the sounds of water running through specially designed channels and reflected sunlight through ventilation shafts. The disoriented cult novitiates were probably given hallucinogens such as San Pedro cactus shortly before entering the darkened maze. These tactics endowed the priests with awe-inspiring power.
To get the most from your visit, it’s worth hiring a local guide to show you around (S40) or go on a guided day trip (including transportation) from Huaraz; this latter option is by far the most budget-friendly way to see these ruins, although it means you'll be wandering with the crowds.
