Constructed between AD 900 and 1100, and rediscovered in 1843, Kuélap is made up of millions of cubic feet of remarkably preserved stone. The 700m-long oval fortress is surrounded by an imposing, near-impenetrable wall that towers 6m to 12m high. Entrance into this stronghold is via three deep, lean gates – an ingenious security system that forced attacking parties into easily defeated single files.
Inside are three levels scattered with the remnants of more than 400 circular dwellings. Some are decorated with zigzag and rhomboid friezes, and all were once topped by soaring thatched roofs. One dwelling has been reconstructed although shoddy workmanship means it's in danger of collapse.
The most impressive and enigmatic structure, named El Tintero (Inkpot), is in the shape of a large inverted cone. Inside, an underground chamber houses the remains of animal sacrifices, leading archaeologists to believe that it was a religious building of some kind. Kuélap resident archaeologist Alfredo Narvez has now excavated graves and llama skeletons around El Tintero to further support this theory. A 1996 hypothesis by a team from the University of San Diego suggests it may have also been a solar calendar. Another building is a lookout tower with excellent 360-degree vistas. The mountain summit on which the whole city sits is surrounded by abundant greenery, towering bromeliad-covered trees and exotic orchids. Keep an eye out for the citadel's only modern residents – a herd of llamas, but don't get too close as they sometimes spit and kick.
Tour groups usually arrive at the ruins around 11:30am and leave by 3pm, so consider spending the night nearby if you are after a more individual experience.
