Amantaní Island, population 4000, is a few kilometers north of the small Taquile. Almost all trips to Amantaní involve an overnight stay with islanders. Helping them cook on open fires in dirt-floored kitchens and meeting small children who walk an hour each way to school every day is humbling and sometimes life-changing. Commercial as Amantaní has become, a stay here is unforgettable.