Pffhhfft, a whale's 'blow' – we hear it first before we see it; we are on a boat crossing from Narooma wharf to Montague Island on the South Coast of NSW and we are in playful company. Thwack! A sizeable pectoral fin slaps the calm surface of the water and everyone is mesmerised. The tension is palpable, everyone is poised. My fingers are cramping from gripping the slippery edges of my iPhone; dropping it into the deep is just not an option.
"This is the very start of the southern migration season, which runs till November, " Wazza says of the humpback whales moving to Antarctica for feeding. Wazza is the skipper and owner of Lighthouse Charters, his laconic delivery is timely punctuated with another blow, a sighting of a "glide", a glimmer of the two playful six-metre long juvenile humpback whales that have us hooked.
It soon becomes a dance – Wazza watches the sonar, manoeuvres the boat in anticipation, silence, then a whale blows out onto the surface, appearing close enough to almost touch it and in apparent slow motion, this majestic creature glides back into the water, taking away a world of stress with it.
Fairfax photographer Nick Moir spots whales and swims with seals off Montague Island on the NSW south coast.
On the horizon, Montague Island or Barunguba, the Yuin name given by the local Aboriginal people, is beckoning. Bucket lists have been ticked off early for a couple of friends who felt that the 4.5 hours' drive from Sydney, the packing, the departure from domestic chores, will be worthwhile if they spot a whale. Fifteen minutes in, nature delivers.
Close up, the island looks exotic; large boulders jut out of the turquoise water, some cloaked in vivid yellow and green lichens, some, provide platforms for sun-bathing fur seals. The lighthouse and the cottages are a stark white.
We walk back, wondering, lost in the dark, feeling high from what we've just experienced. It's incredible that in one day we've seen our version of Montague's "big five", whales, penguins, sea eagles, dolphins and seals.
Mags King
Montague is a remnant of a volcanic island, 1.4 kilometres long and 525 metres wide, nine kilometres from the mainland and five nautical miles from the continental shelf. The surrounding East Australian current delivers rich nutrients and fodder for wildlife such as the 1000 or so fur seals who call Montague home.
And like a seasoned performer, an Australian fur seal dives into the water and swims towards us waving its flipper. Wazza and his children recently enjoyed a swim with these playful creatures here, a "bachelor pad" for Australian and long-nosed (AKA New Zealand) fur seals, which means that pups are few and predator attacks are rare.
Our group is warmly greeted by Tom at the jetty, who along with Tim, are the National Parks caretakers and guides based on the island; it's an idyllic home.
It's a picturesque walk that meanders up to the lighthouse, interrupted by a passage of flapping wings, a flurry of feathers, to the sound-track of high-pitched, ear-piercing squawking. We run through, waving our arms maniacally and at every turn. Red, beady eyes glare back accusingly, the silver gulls are clearly not impressed.
The lighthouse stands tall on a granite base that was quarried on the island; there are still remnants of large granite blocks on the grounds that are surprisingly spotless despite the number of seagull rookeries around them. At the foot of the lighthouse, are two accommodation quarters, the Assistant Lighthouse Keeper's, which has three bedrooms and the Head Lighthouse Keeper's cottage, which accommodates 12 people. We are staying at the latter and there is nothing cottagey about it.
The lighthouse and these buildings were built in 1881, and aside from the $1 million stainless steel roof, it retains the atmosphere of a heritage manor house. Its high ceilings, large living areas and bedrooms set apart by wide and long corridors all echo its past, as the home of the light keeper and his family. The kitchen is generous and fully equipped to cater for big family meals and the pantry is stocked with items that you would normally forget or think twice of bringing; cling wrap anyone? Despite its comforts, the manor does not compete with exploring the island and its wildlife, which undoubtedly can be enjoyed from the verandah or sitting on one of the rock platforms facing the all encompassing vista. The occasional boom of a whale breaching can even be heard indoors.
Montague was first declared a wildlife sanctuary in 1953 and became a nature reserve managed by the National Parks and Wildlife Service in 1990. Since the eradication of mice, rabbits and goats that once populated the island, along with long term projects such as the control of weeds like the kikuyu grass which entangles nesting birds, the island has been re-established as breeding ground and haven for seabirds.
There are 93 bird species, shearwaters, which migrate thousands of kilometres from the northern hemisphere, little penguins and crested terns all breed on Montague. Gould's petrels, once an endangered species, have also been seen, which to a twitcher, is surely one for the life list.
We look up and towards the sacred Aboriginal site on the southern end of the island, we see a pair of white bellied sea eagles; the photographer quickly brings out his big lens and vanishes into the shrubs, never to be seen again that afternoon.
Someone suggests a walk down to the old jetty bay where there's a small sandy beach, brave a dip with some fur seals, perhaps have sun-downers before staying on to see the little penguins come out of their burrows for a swim.
The glorious afternoon sun casts a dream-like glow across the landscape, catching shapes and forms, through reeds, through twisted trees, softening grass into long carpets of green, snaking between shrubs and boulders; it is quite magical. No need for Instagram filters here.
Off a rock, seals dive one by one as if on a production line. Humans on the other hand are less graceful – there's chatter and shrieks as they dip into the cold water. My cold becomes an excuse that renders me a bystander. It doesn't take long before a couple of seals swim towards them; they are all silhouetted against a blood orange backdrop which completes the whole surreal scene. Later, I was told that the seals are much larger close up, with huge dog-like eyes, super curious and agile in the water; perhaps I should have gone in.
Montague Island has the largest population of little penguins in NSW so we may get lucky tonight. Dusk is setting in, and out come the mossies with too much gusto but the sight of a few dazed little penguins waddling towards the rocks and into the water is worth all the mozzie bites. It's an all-consuming experience; some shy away, some stop for a few seconds, as though that would shake our intent gaze, and another, so oblivious that it even steps on my shoe. Can today get any better?
We walk back, wondering, lost in the dark, feeling high from what we've just experienced. It's incredible that in one day we've seen our version of Montague's "big five", whales, penguins, sea eagles, dolphins and seals, though I'm sure the seagulls would have something to say about that.
The next day, we linger longer over breakfast, call out "whales breaching" mid-conversation, see pods of dolphins playing, some of us climb up the lighthouse to see a bird's eye view. Later, over some good food and wine we share stories and no one dare utter the word work.
Though as nature would have it, all good things come to an end and as the boat pulls away, cameras and iPhones are down, unexpectedly, a couple of whales breach like fireworks on the horizon and we get to appreciate the spectacle, old school, with our very own eyes.
MORE INFORMATION
nationalparks.nsw.gov.au
GETTING THERE
Transport by boat is included in the cost; see lighthousechartersnarooma.com.
STAYING THERE
The Head Lighthouse Keeper's Cottage, starts at $1800 a night, and the Assistant Lighthouse Keeper's Cottage $1200 a night. There is a minimum two-night stay at both.
SEE + DO
Whale watching: The peak season for seeing whales, penguins and seals is September through to end of November. There are also walking tracks, swimming, snorkelling and bird watching.
