Best in the West: Australia’s secret city

The diminutive city of Fremantle, on Australia’s west coast, is well regarded for its live music and trailblazing craft beer scene. A short trip from Perth, it is not unlike England’s Brighton – the smaller and more eccentric seaside cousin of the big city to the north. Like Brighton, part of the city’s immediate charm is found in its ornate buildings from another era, as well as the creative locals that inhabit them. Thanks to these eclectic souls Fremantle is now one of the must-stay places for anyone heading Down Under.

Hear

Music is integral to the fabric of Fremantle and not just because it’s the final resting ground of AC/DC legend Bon Scott. Fremantle is the narrative backdrop for many a song penned by famous Australian musicians from Paul Kelly to The Waifs.  And it wasn’t all that long ago that the rootsy John Butler (of John Butler Trio fame) could be found busking in the streets here.

There’s still plenty of music to be heard in Fremantle today, whether at the family-friendly Fremantle Street Arts Festival (fremantlestory.com.au; held annually around Easter) or from the slew of buskers outside Fremantle Markets on the weekend. The best live music venue in Fremantle is the long-standing and somewhat grungy Mojos Bar where gigs are less than a tenner and genres range from reggae to rap – and everything in between. Also check out the listings for the Fly By Night Musicians Club, an iconic not-for profit operation that’s hosted talents like Tame Impala and Eskimo Joe.

Finally, if you can time your visit for it, get yourself to the Fremantle edition of St Jerome’s Laneway Festival (fremantle.lanewayfestival.com) which brings local and international acts to town at the tail end of summer.

See

Mixed-media, painting, portrait photography, found-object sculpture, immersive installations, electronic gigs and fashion shows…. yes, gallery-goers visiting Fremantle’s PS Art Space (psas.com.au) in the historic West End are in for a treat. Home to the state’s largest concentration of independent artist studios, Fremantle has very much established its own scene.

Further proof of this city's creativity can be seen at the nearby Moores Building (fac.org.au/moores-building) – another contemporary gallery managed by the Fremantle Art Centre. The highlight for many is the gift shop: FOUND is full of locally designed ceramics, high quality stationery, and creative trinkets you probably don’t need, but you will really want to have.

Drink

First, the two famous stalwart craft beer destinations in Fremantle Little Creatures and Sail & Anchor are still in fighting form and are well worth visiting to sink a few quality brews.

However, there is now a handful of smaller drinking establishments earning the love of the locals. Mrs Browns in North Fremantle, housed in a Victorian terrace, is one stand-out example. From malbec to merlot, wine is the focus here with around 30 options on the menu. Pull up a chair in the intimate courtyard to while away a balmy afternoon.

Plonk enthusiasts will also feel at home at Whisper Wine Bar which focuses primarily on Australian and New Zealand wines, but has a splash of French producers on the list -- a nod to the nationality of the owners.

On the cocktail front head to the recently renovated Bathers Beach House. Sitting here with a ginger margarita in hand looking out towards Rottnest Island brings home West Australia’s fantastic remoteness from the rest of the world.

Eat

West Australia's Margaret River may be famous for its foodie scene, but Fremantle's reputation is gathering pace. First take your tastebuds to The Raw Kitchen, a short walk from Fremantle’s Town Hall. This newish diner has ultra-healthy plant-based cuisine, served with a variety of seasonal dishes and buckwheat-base pizzas. The exposed-brick and polished concrete floor aesthetic has that cool urban feel, albeit with warm and friendly staff.  The Raw Kitchen also sells a variety of natural sweet treats to take away (try the fig and cacao ‘bliss balls’) and has a smoothie bar, a yoga program, and a shop (aptly named, The Store) with a range of sustainable homewares, vegan cookbooks and local artisan produce.

The same natural food vibe is found at Bread in Common, makers of rustic bread (wood-fired on volcanic stone) served at various eateries around town. Bread in Common has an all-day brunch menu for the late starters, and modern seafood dishes (think cuttlefish with goji berries) plus an expansive local cheese and wine list.

Beyond its cultural and culinary offerings, the longest standing drawcard  is of course Fremantle’s coastline. As well as dining, drinking and gallery hopping, make time to sit and watch at least one striking sunset from the grassed area at Leighton Beach (North Fremantle) and one ocean swim at the pristine and spacious South Beach (South Fremantle).

Then you will know what the ‘Freo’ spirit is all about.