First time Jerusalem: an essential guide to the world’s holiest city

Sacred to Jews, Christians and Muslims, Jerusalem’s Old City is one of the world’s foremost pilgrimage destinations. It’s also one of the most magical – and disputed – places in the Middle East. If the description ‘living history’ truly applies anywhere in the world, it applies here.

But the Old City isn’t the only attraction in town. In the modern part of Jerusalem are museums, memorials and markets to visit, as well as a thriving café, bar and restaurant scene to investigate. Together, the city’s old and new sections offer an irresistible and unique destination for travellers.

Stats

Population: 816,000

Visitors per year: 3.5 million

Best time of year to go: May or Sep-Oct.

Best festival: the Old City is illuminated at night during June’s Light in Jerusalem festival (lights-in-jerusalem.com).

Neighbourhoods & sights

Al-Haram ash Sharif/Temple Mount
Few places on earth are as religiously significant as Al-Haram ash Sharif/Temple Mount. Located on the southeastern edge of the Old City, this elevated cyprus-planted plaza is revered by Jews as the location of the First and Second Temples, and is also home to two of Islam’s most sacred buildings: the Al-Aqsa Mosque and the shrine known as the Dome of the Rock. Security officers ensure that entry to the mosque is for Muslims only, but every visitor can wander around the plaza and admire the perfect proportions, tile-encrusted exterior walls and glittering gold roof of the shrine.

Top tip: arrive early (the site opens at 7.30am) to be sure of getting in, dress demurely (no shorts) and bring your passport for the security check.

Christian Quarter, Old City
There haven’t been too many changes in this ancient part of the city since Helena, mother of Roman Emperor Constantine, came to Jerusalem in 326 AD, looking for Christ’s crucifixion site. The signature sound of the narrow streets, home to 4500 residents drawn from 20 different Christian denominations, is still the sonorous chime of church bells; the defining smell is the heady whiff of incense crossed with the mustiness of millennia. The quarter’s greatest attraction is Christendom’s most holy structure, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, built at Helena’s behest to sanctify the place where she – and subsequently billions of Christians – believed Christ was crucified and entombed.

Top tip: visit just after opening (5am summer; 4am winter) or in the hour before closing (8/9pm summer; 7pm winter) to avoid the crowds.

Jewish Quarter, Old City
The massive stone blocks of the Western Wall (Kotel) are Judaism’s most holy site and an important place of worship – Jews believe the wall once supported the Second Temple, destroyed by the Romans in 70 AD. Nearby, the Jerusalem Archaeological Park & Davidson Centre offers a fascinating peek into the history of the Temple Mount and its surrounds. Another important archaeological site, the City of David, is located just outside Dung Gate, on the southern edge of the quarter.

Top tip: photography is forbidden in the Western Wall Plaza itself, but you can take photographs from the viewing platforms in the laneways between the plaza and Hurva Square.

Muslim Quarter, Old City
A microcosm of the Middle East, this colourful quarter starts at bustling Damascus Gate on the edge of Arab East Jerusalem and is centred along the narrow mercantile strips of Al Wad Rd and Souq Khan al-Zeit St. Purchase aromatic spices, sample delectable Arabic sweets, and admire the handsome though sadly deteriorating facades of palaces, tombs and caravanserais built by the Mamluk rulers of the city between the 13th and 16th centuries.

Top tip: if you are here around lunchtime, head to Jerusalem’s best loved hummus joint, Abu Shukri, for a bowl of tangy tahini-laden hummus accompanied by crispy falafel.

Armenian Quarter, Old City
The Armenian Quarter’s 1500 residents are the only remaining representatives of a community that has been in Jerusalem for nearly two millennia. Visitors can join them for a service in the 12th-century St James’ (Jacques’) Cathedral, and afterwards head to the Citadel (Tower of David) at Jaffa Gate, which is now home to the impressive Museum of the History of Jerusalem.

Top tip: if you liked the cathedral’s tiles and would like to purchase something similar to take home, head to the Armenian Ceramic Centre in the neighbouring Christian Quarter.

Mahane Yehuda Market, City Centre
As well as being crammed with fresh fruit, olives, nuts and vegetables, open-air Mahane Yehuda Market is also a good place to source spices, tea, cheese, dried fruit, tahini, bread and pastries. Watch the daytime action from one of the cafes (we like Cafelix) and return after sunset when the market hosts a hipster bar scene.

Top Tip: two exciting restaurants in the market precinct are Yudaleh and Machneyuda. Arrive early (6.30pm) to score a bar stool at Yudaleh, or book well in advance for a table at Machneyuda.

Israel Museum, Givat Ram
You’ll need to devote at least half a day to exploring the magnificent Israel Museum. Marvel at the treasures in the Archaeology wing, be fascinated by the displays in the Jewish Art & Life wing, wander past sculptures in the Isamu Noguchi-designed art garden, and come face to face with the famed Dead Sea Scrolls in the purpose-built Shrine of the Book pavilion.

Top tip: Take advantage of the complimentary audioguide, and consider lunch in the museum’s excellent Modern Restaurant.

Yad Vashem, Har Hazikaron
Spread over 16 pine-scented hectares of the Jerusalem forest on the western edge of city, Yad Vashem is a moving and powerful memorial to the six million Jews killed in the Holocaust. Yad Vashem means ‘A Memorial and a Name’ and one of the highlights here is the Hall of Names, where the personal details of millions of victims are recorded. Another highlight is the Children’s Memorial, a dimly lit underground cavern containing a solitary flame reflected infinitely by hundreds of mirrors.

Top tip: the memorial is easily reached on the Jerusalem Light Rail (JLR); alight at the Mt Herzl stop.

What to pack

• Good non-slip walking shoes – the Old City can only be explored on foot, and many of its pavements are slippery.
• Headscarf or shawl – useful for women needing to meet modest dress requirements in religious buildings.
• Long trousers or skirt – shorts and miniskirts are not acceptable attire in many churches and synagogues, or at the Dome of the Rock.

Where to stay

Those seeking atmospheric lodgings should consider staying in one of the religious guesthouses in the Old City or East Jerusalem. The best of these are Christ Church Guesthouse, Austrian Hospice, Lutheran Guest House, Ecce Homo Pilgrim House and St George’s Guesthouse. For more comfortable options stay in the City Centre, where the majority of Jerusalem’s cafes, restaurants and bars are located. Good mid-range boutique choices are offered by the Atlas Hotels chain (atlas.co.il).

Getting around

Shuttle buses to the City Centre from Ben-Gurion Airport operate 24hr and depart from the rank in front of the international arrivals hall. They charge 41NIS per passenger.

To take advantage of the city’s efficient bus and light rail network, purchase an ‘anonymous’ (‘anonimi’) Rav-Kav smart card for 5NIS from the Egged public ticketing office at the Central Bus Station or from any bus driver and load it with a certain number of rides (6.90NIS each, or 10 rides for 55.20NIS). For information about public transport in the city, see jet.org.il.