How to guide for Indias giant Navratri festival

Bave Wali Mata Mandir​ temple is dedicated to Hindu goddess Kali and it's popular with domestic pilgrims year-round. In fact, many Hindus consider it second only to Shri Mata Vaishno Devi, one of the most-visited pilgrim sites in the whole of India.

As we near the fort we notice how frenetically busy the area is. Aromas of deep-fried treats and the spicy-sweet waft of incense drift into the car as we slowly  manouevre our way through the colourful chaos. Indian incense is an amalgam of various unique aromas not found in many other places in the world, and this is our first time back to India in 10 years – and smell is a powerful memory trigger.

Our driver repeats the word  "Navratri several times before we grasp that he's attempting to explain there's a festival on. He pulls into an overflowing car park to let us out of the vehicle and points down a road and then at himself, repeating the gesture several times. We conclude that we are to meet him down the road. We've declined the offer of a guide just for today… and so we set off to explore.  

 Navratri is a nine-day Hindu festival celebrated four times a year and we've lucked out with our timing as it's an incredibly lively time to visit. To put it in perspective, Shri Mata Vaishno Devi sees a massive surge in followers during  Navratri – an estimated eight to 10 million pilgrims visit each year.

Bave Wali Mata Mandir doesn't see quite so many visitors, but the city-side temple is jam-packed and we join hundreds of joyous Hindus in line, not really sure what to expect, making the chance visit all the more exciting. 

Kashmir and Jammu are a little stricter on security than most other Indian states, but even knowing this beforehand we are still surprised at the number of security measures employed. Temple attendees are not permitted to take anything inside and we are obligated to leave behind bags, cameras and shoes with a shady-looking chap who promises he's manning the safest locker room in the city. Everyone else is leaving their possessions with him without so much as a glance back, so we make like the locals do and just go with the flow.

The "flow" is then split up into two lines – one for men and one for women – and we each endure four extensive body searches before finally moving into the temple grounds.  

Inside it's another world – the one you perhaps envisage having never been to India. It's a whirlwind of colours – candy pinks, fiery oranges, bright yellows – all singing, chanting, moving and munching. 

We notice a group of women seated cross-legged on the ground singing and clapping as two individuals twirl their dreadlocked heads over and over, speeding up as the clapping accelerates. Mesmerised by the unusual spectacle we don't realise that we too start moving our heads, lost in the beat of the unknown and dancing with people we don't know. Bliss. 

TRIP NOTES

MORE INFORMATION

incredibleindia.org

GETTING THERE

Air India is the only carrier in Australia flying direct between the two countries. Fly from Sydney and Melbourne to Delhi direct and then onto Jammu. See airindia.in or call 1800 247 463. 

SEE + DO

It's recommend tourists travel to Jammu with a tour company and Pure India Collection is the ultimate in enriching and unique luxury travel experiences. Itineraries are fully customised and include accommodation, activities, guides, drivers and transfers. See pureindiacollection.com.au or call 1300 365 060.

STAYING THERE

The 50-room Hotel Jehlum Resort offers travellers a convenient central location, as well as access to wifi, a swimming pool and a gymnasium. The staff on site are always happy to help. See jehlumresortjammu.com.