Australia's Apple Isle has much going for it — magnificent wilderness areas, cosy coastal towns, enough art and history to satisfy the keenest culture-vulture and a thriving foodie scene. And if you're looking for a family holiday or romantic escape that won't break the bank, it's the ideal destination for a road trip. Just pack up your car (or caravan or campervan) and head for Port Melbourne's Station Pier, drive on to the Spirit of Tasmania and enjoy a truly local cruise to Tasmania's Devonport.
TT-Line, the company that operates Spirit of Tasmania I and II, has been transporting passengers and their vehicles across Bass Strait for 30 years so the operation is seamless. This season it has experienced an unprecedented surge in bookings for day and night sailings between Melbourne and Devonport.
While the majority of passengers take their own vehicles, my travel buddy and I only had a weekend to spare, so we decided to fly to Melbourne and hire a car in Devonport for our road trip after taking the night sailing from Melbourne. Spirit of Tasmania had just been given a major makeover and having seen the ship in dry dock in Sydney I was keen to revisit it in cruise mode.
The refurbishment, which saw both ships being thoroughly overhauled, included upgrading the deluxe and standard cabins, adding two new 48-seat cinemas (one showing kids' movies) and 121 new recliners in the renovated accommodation lounge. The upper decks were ripped out and replaced with bright, airy lounge and dining spaces plus a kids' play area that includes a jungle gym and games arcade.
We were booked into a four-bed porthole cabin, which was basic but clean and new-looking, and had an en suite bathroom that was perfectly sufficient for a one-night stay. However, if you fancy a bit more comfort, you can treat yourself to a night in one of the deluxe cabins. These have queen-sized beds and double portholes, and if you're travelling with a baby, they also accommodate a cot.
The ships, which each accommodate up to 1400 people and 500 vehicles, were built in 1998 and sail across Bass Strait at a brisk maximum speed of 30 knots. Our 11-hour night crossing was smooth and we enjoyed a leisurely drink in each of the three bars before heading to the TMK buffet restaurant on Deck 7 for dinner. The bars serve a selection of Tasmanian beers, ciders, whisky and wines, and during the day sailings would be relaxing spots to hang out and take in the sea views.
TMK stands for Tasmanian Market Kitchen, which is another new feature of the ships since they were refurbished. Prices are very reasonable — $14 for starters, $22 to $28 for main courses — and $10 for children's meals, or free of charge for the under-fives. We ordered the chicken wrapped in prosciutto and dukkha-crusted salmon, both of which were good hearty fare rather than high-end gourmet dishes.
Disembarking early in the morning was quick and easy. The roads out of Devonport are easy to navigate and the weekend gave us enough time for a leisurely exploration of the lush, green countryside, seaside towns and out-of-the-way wineries of Tasmania's north-west coast. It's like travelling back in time to a more civilised era — and as the Aussie dollar is not what it was a year ago, a cruise-drive holiday is an affordable, flexible alternative to going overseas.
LOOK AND LEARN
On day sailings between December and April, artists and performers are on board to introduce visitors to Tasmanian history, culture and wildlife. Devonport-based "Snake artist" Bill Flowers is a popular presenter — themed activities include circus acts, badge-making, face-painting and heritage talks.
SEE A MOVIE
Two comfortable new cinemas show a selection of latest-release movies — admission is $13.50 for adults, $8.50 for children.
TASTE
Tasmanian cheeses, chocolate, jams, wines, whiskies, beer and ciders are on offer for sampling in the Flavours of Tassie program, held between May and November on day sailings. Meet the makers and find out why their produce is so sought-after.
LISTEN
Every evening a local musician performs in the Terrace Lounge Bar on Deck 9, to ease you into a cruisey holiday mood.
RELAX
Head up to the lounge on Deck 10 and enjoy sea views by day, curl up with a good book in the Reading Room on Deck 7 or if you're feeling lucky, have a flutter in the Admirals Gaming Lounge.
CHRISTMAS HILLS RASPBERRY FARM
Raspberries are so expensive in Sydney having the fruit in every conceivable form — including most deliciously dipped in dark chocolate — is a rare treat. Whatever the time of day. See raspberryfarmcafe.com.
MAKERS' WORKSHOP, BURNIE
This striking, contemporary building houses workshops for artists in residence, beautiful displays of arts and crafts, a paper-making studio and a tourist information desk. My best buy: a hand-knitted merino wool scarf. See discoverburnie.net.
TABLE CAPE, WYNYARD
Enjoy magnificent views over Bass Strait on the walk from the lookout to the 19th-century lighthouse, which still operates. If you visit in spring, the tulip and lily fields form a patchwork of vibrant colour — tulip bulbs are even exported to the Netherlands. See vdqbulbs.com.au.
STANLEY
The picturesque oceanfront town was established in the early 1800s as the headquarters for the Van Dieman's Land Company; its original store is now an atmospheric boutique hotel, @VDL Stanley (see atvdlstanley.com.au). The self-guided Stanley Heritage Walk takes an hour or so. See stanleyheritagewalk.com.au.
BRICKENDON ESTATE, LONGFORD
This World Heritage Listed property has been continuously farmed by the Archer family since 1824. Book in and explore 20 heritage buildings, beautiful gardens and walks. See brickendon.com.au.
MORE INFORMATION
spiritoftasmania.com.au
discovertasmania.com.au
GETTING THERE
Accommodation for passengers (without vehicles) on night sailings ranges from recliners in the lounge ($96) to a four-bed inside cabin (from $96 a person plus $132 a cabin), four-bed porthole cabin (from $96 a person plus $180 a cabin), twin-bed porthole cabin (from $96 a person plus $180 a cabin) and queen-bed deluxe cabin (from $96 a person plus $460 a cabin). Fares for day sailings start at $86 a person. Fares for passengers travelling with vehicles depend on the size of the vehicle.
