There's an embossed gold envelope lying on my bed and inside it is an invitation to dinner. I'll be eating degustation-style tonight at Table La Rive and will watch the banks of the mighty Danube as they roll on by, while I sample wines from Austria's Wachau Valley and courses that span from an amuse bouche all the way to soup and dessert and everything in between.
But there's something missing from the sparkling envelope; it doesn't tell the whole story, for how does an executive chef (Exequiel Cruzat, in this case, his name inscribed in beautiful font at the bottom of the invitation) produce sublime food for discerning guests aboard a luxury ship as it navigates the locks and ports of Europe's great rivers?
The Scenic Jasper – a next-generation Space-Ship launched by the Australian-owned company earlier this year – might well be a perfectly proportioned vision of comfort, but there's only so much space between the locks through which it must squeeze, and therefore limited space into which it can compress a galley kitchen and all the people who must work within it.
And it must be said that the kitchen on this ship works harder than most: all meals, drinks and snacks are included in Scenic's passenger fare – necessitating a constant flow of fresh and delicious sustenance. Consequently, the kitchen is open 24 hours a day, servicing the ship's six dining options.
I'm keen to find out just how it is they manage to populate the vast breakfast, lunch and dinner buffet, the intimate, white-clothed evening dinner tables at the exclusive Table La Rive (to which all Diamond Deck passengers receive an invitation during their cruise) and Portobellos (an Italian restaurant open for advance bookings from all passengers), the Riverside Cafe and Riverview Terrace – perfect spots for an impromptu, any-time-of-day snack – and the ultimate in private dining indulgence: room service.
Before dinner, I descend the stairs and find my way into the ship's sacred space, the tiny-but-smart stainless steel kitchen in which Cruzat and his small team of cooks, dishwashers and potato peelers weave their magic. Compared to most other river cruisers, Scenic's ships accommodate a small number of passengers (Scenic Jasper sleeps 169) but the demands on the team manning this kitchen are huge: each day they must produce around 500 meals, including 90 servings of soup, around 200 main courses, 85 salads and the same number of appetisers. And all this in a kitchen that is almost always on the move.
There's no time down here to watch Europe passing by. The kitchen crew sets to work like an efficient, mini-United Nations – Cruzat is from the Philippines and others come from places like the Ukraine, Slovakia, Romania, Indonesia and Hungary.
The lamb comes from New Zealand, the lobster from Canada, the beef from Argentina. Most of the cooks are seasoned seafarers, which makes working in this kitchen, on this body of water – quite stable compared to the open seas – a breeze. There are some challenges, though: the cramped quarters, the sourcing of fresh ingredients – and the demands of hungry passengers. No request is too decadent, though.
"If we don't have the ingredients, we go and get them," explains Cruzat.
Hotel Manager Mladen Brus, who started working as a cruise ship waiter in 2000, recalls the night one passenger ordered 18 lobsters, all for himself. But he's been pleasantly surprised by the comparative reserve of Scenic passengers.
"I was expecting much more demanding guests [on this ship], but Australians are amazing guests," he says.
Australians are also keen foodies, and in recognition of this Scenic has introduced "Shop with a Chef", an activity in which passengers are taken on guided tours of gourmet food markets in beautiful locations like Vienna, Strasbourg and Paris. Once back on board, the culinary team transforms the gathered ingredients into regional dishes which are served in the buffet's "regional corner".
My tastebuds have been put on notice and my sense of gratitude sharpened by the time I sit down to dinner at Table La Rive that night.
The degustation is a delight made even more special by the knowledge that it was prepared under such trying conditions. Among the six courses are an amuse bouche of lemongrass creme brulee, a salad of scampi with mango and rucola (rocket) and a glorious, frothing bowl of mushroom cappuccino soup. The matching wines are as varied as the meal itself: head butler and sommelier Natalia Bozhenkova tells us the stories behind the liquor as she pours drops from Austria, Italy, France, Germany and Hungary.
As we float along while eating and drinking, laughing and chatting (and, later, dancing and singing in the Panorama Lounge and Bar with its live music) it occurs to me that this is indeed a most civilised way in which to see Europe, particularly during the popular summer months. By boarding this floating, five-star hotel, we've managed to beat the traffic jams that clog the continent from one end to the other; our bags need only be unpacked once, and we are delivered fresh each morning to a new destination.
It's a mode of travel that Australian Glen Moroney and his wife, Karen, have perfected. Their company, which began as a humble coach-tour operator in South Australia's Warrnambool in 1986, now operates on every continent and owns the newest ships to sail on European rivers.
The fleet rose in number to 12 this year with the launch of Scenic Jasper and Scenic Opal; in 2016, Scenic Amber will be launched on the Rhine, Main and Danube rivers and Scenic Azure on Portugal's Douro River. The Jasper is the longest ship that can be used between the Black Sea and the North Sea because of the size of the locks along the region's rivers.
"We are proud of the innovations we have made on Scenic Jasper," says Glen Moroney. "We've taken what was already an exceptional design and are now able to offer our guests a real heightened sense of luxury [and] the largest suites on Europe's rivers."
Those suites and the expansive public spaces are sophisticated and elegant with a modern twist. Blonde timber is juxtaposed with Italian marble; there are Kvadrat and Romo fabrics in neutral tones and specially commissioned sculptures and paintings dotted about.
"In Australia we work directly with several acclaimed and rising artists, such as Waldemar Kolbusz and Peter Sharp, both receiving prominent positions and guest adoration," says Karen Moroney, who is responsible for the new Space-Ships' interior design.
There are two elements in particular that enchant me. Balconies on the Sapphire and Diamond decks enlarge the cabin's footprint when their bifold doors are flung open and windows can be operated electronically; and there's a jaunty LED shower head which emits a riot of colours, so that when I stand beneath the jets I feel I'm being sprinkled with glitter instead of water.
The light in these shower heads – hot pink, fiery red, calming blue – is said to enhance the mood. A superfluous feature, I suppose, on a ship whose sole purpose is to relax and delight those guests lucky enough to make it on board.
MORE INFORMATION
scenic.com.au
GETTING THERE
Launched just this year, the new Scenic Jasper and Scenic Opal cruise from Amsterdam to Budapest and vice versa.
STAYING THERE
Explore Europe's waterways in 2016 on a 15-Day Jewels of Europe River Cruise from Amsterdam to Budapest on board one of Scenic's next-generation Space-Ships. The cruise sails along the Rhine, Main and Danube rivers, passing through the Netherlands, Germany, Austria and Hungary along the way. Prices start from $6795 per person, twin share. Book by October 31, 2015, and receive an early bird offer which includes free flights to Europe, a saving of up to $6090 per couple. See scenic.com.au.
SPA
Head down to the massage room on the Scenic Jasper's Jewel Deck and select a treatment from a small but discerning menu which includes massages and facials. Cutting and styling services – including beard trims, eyebrow shaping and eyelash tinting – are offered in the salon next door.
RELAX
Around every corner you'll find a place to relax, read a book, play a board game or simply gaze out into the distance. If the weather's good, ascend to the teak-accented Sun Deck with its loungers, armchairs, footstools – and walking track, for the more energetic. You'll always find a stylish, comfy chair in the Panorama Lounge and Bar – or, if your cabin is on the Sapphire or Diamond decks, bunker down on your private, fully-integrated, all-weather balcony.
SWIM
The Vitality Pool on the upper Sun Deck isn't quite big enough for swimming laps but is great for lounging around in on sunny days as the countryside passes by. There are underwater jets and a submerged recliner – and if you ask nicely, your butler will bring you a fancy cocktail from the bar downstairs.
EXERCISE
Scenic has managed to squeeze a gym onto the ship and it's equipped with a treadmill, cross-trainer, cycle, free weights, Swiss ball and – for those concerned about all that the excess food – a set of digital scales. Exercisers needn't feel they're missing out: screens allow them to view scenic routes.
TAKE A TOUR
If you're spending a lazy day on board be sure to access Scenic's Tailormade program, which can be accessed anywhere on the ship through the headphones and hand-held device in your cabin. The virtual tours include commentary and explore the history, culture and landscape of more than 700 points of interest the ship passes.
