"This is not a typical Fiordland day," says Carol. We're in one of the wettest places on the planet, a region that gets 250 days of rain a year. But today the weather gods are smiling and we've been blessed with brilliant sunshine and unblemished skies.
Carol insists that Doubtful Sound is at its most spectacular just after a heavy deluge. I'm happy to take her word for it.
Doubtful Sound is the second largest of the 14 fiords in New Zealand's Fiordland National Park. It tends to get overshadowed by Milford, even though many claim Doubtful is more impressive. It's certainly bigger – 10 times longer and three times the volume – and quieter. The boat we're on is one of only four that offers overnight trips.
After boarding the Fiordland Flyer at Pearl Harbour, we skim across the glassy waters of Lake Manapouriand fifty minutes later we disembark next to the Manapouri power station, from where it's a 20-kilometre drive over the vertiginous Wilmot Pass.
After a brake-testing descent into the tiny hamlet of Deep Cove we're finally welcomed aboard the Fiordland Navigator.
The 160-tonne, purpose-built vessel is the largest boat on Doubtful Sound and, while its three masts are largely decorative, they lend it an intrepid Endeavour-esque feel. Captain Cook was the first European to find the sound, naming it after his concerns that if he sailed the Endeavour into it, the prevailing westerly wind might prevent them getting back out.
No such problems for us as we motor through Doubtful's tranquil, tannin-stained waters past 1000-metre-plus-high granite peaks.
We drop anchor in Crooked Arm where there's the option to go kayaking or explore the rocky shoreline by tender.
Carol explains that there are no fish in the first three metres of the sound because of a layer of freshwater created by the area's heavy rainfall. Venture beneath that and you'll find a range of marine life including blue cod, crayfish, seals and dolphins.
Once everyone is back onboard, another slightly less enticing activity is proposed – a swim off the back of the boat. The 19-degree water is – to use a popular South Island euphemism — refreshing.
After a hot shower and a bowl of bacon, leek and potato soup, we cruise back into the main channel and poke our nose into the Tasman Sea. The contrast is striking. This part of the South Island bears the brunt of the Roaring Forties, a band of fierce westerly winds that circles the globe between 40 and 50 degrees latitude. It's incredible to imagine the early explorers battling mountainous seas to harness these winds to sail here from Europe.
We pass a colony of hardy NZ fur seals clinging to a swell-lashed outcrop to return to the sheltered waters of the sound.
As we cruise back up the channel, Carol points out a handful of tiny heads poking out of the water. They're little blue penguins, the smallest penguin species at just 33 centimetres tall. We also spot a Buller's albatross gracefully skimming the water's surface and a pair of paradise shelducks trailed by five furiously paddling chicks.
When we retire to the Navigator's spacious dining saloon for dinner, I confess I have low expectations. Mass catering on a boat is notoriously difficult let alone when you're in the depths of a remote national park.
The buffet-style spread is spectacular. There are four types of salad, a huge tray of steamed green lip mussels, two joints of meat, an entire Akaroa smoked salmon, two types of potatoes and piles of freshly steamed vegies. Despite several visits I barely make a dent.
Dessert is equally impressive and, in the interests of research, I sample the pavlova, the white chocolate cheesecake, the chocolate mud cake and the sticky date pudding with butterscotch sauce. The cheese platter, however, is a step too far.
Accommodation ranges from comfortable doubles and twins with ensuites to cosy quad shares with a communal bathroom.
The following morning the weather is back on form with a blanket of low grey cloud that renders the landscape mystical and brooding. Waterfalls cascade from beneath the cloud line and peninsulas loom dramatically out of the mist.
www.newzealand.com
Air New Zealand flies from Sydney and Melbourne to Queenstown. Phone 13 24 76, see www.airnewzealand.com.au
Real Journey's overnight Doubtful Sound cruise costs from $370 per person, see www.realjourneys.co.nz
Adventure South's seven-day South Island multi-activity adventure includes the Doubtful Sound cruise plus visits to Stewart Island, the Catlins, the Otago Peninsula and the Tasman Glacier. From $2920. Phone 1800 10 70 60, see www.advsouth.co.nz
This overnight cruise explores Waitemata Harbour and the islands of the Hauraki Gulf on Ipipiri, a state-of-the-art luxury catamaran. See haurakibluecruises.co.nz
Explore Milford Sound on the Milford Mariner with specialist guides and activities including kayaking and swimming. See realjourneys.co.nz
Comfortable 36-berth houseboat The Rock offers overnight cruises around the Bay of Islands. See rocktheboat.co.nz
Walk sections of the Queen Charlotte Track and visit the Motuara Island bird sanctuary during Affinity Cruises' two- and three-night departures. See affinitycruises.co.nz
Raglan Boat Charters offers an overnight "floatel" experience for up to 10 people onboard its luxury cruiser Wahine Moe. See raglanboatcharters.co.nz
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