In a world of cruising "firsts" Viking Star's Snow Grotto is unusual, to say the least. Who'd think that people would voluntarily submit their nearly naked bodies to sub-freezing temperatures in a frosty room on a cruise ship? Well, plenty of happy passengers are leaping from sauna to snow, just as Nordic people have done for centuries to rev up the circulation. In this case, though, it's in the environment of possibly the most spectacular spa at sea – which, unlike most cruise-ship spas, is free to use.
Viking Star's infinity pool has also attracted lots of attention. Cantilevered off the ship's stern on the seventh deck, there's just a glass wall between you and the ocean below – slightly unnerving if you don't like heights but incredibly relaxing at the same time.
However, with eight passenger decks, Viking Star is a far cry from some of the newest megaships that tower 16 decks above sea level. It is classically elegant, inside and out; from the moment you step aboard, the sense of space and light is striking. Checking in is an informal business conducted in comfy chairs at tables in the Living Room on Deck 1, and everywhere you look there are books, Scandinavian artworks (including a drawing by Norway's most famous artist, Edvard Munch), and inviting nooks for reading, enjoying a coffee or drink, or just taking in the views from floor-to-ceiling windows.
And that's just the Living Room. The light, comfortable and very contemporary Nordic style flows throughout the ship, from the restaurants, bars and entertainment spaces to the all-balcony staterooms. It's cool, but not remotely clinical – natural elements such as slate, pale woods, limestone and granite are highlighted by vibrant textiles, colourful glassware and sculptural plant displays.
Viking Star carries a maximum of 930 passengers and much of its design is based on the results of surveying thousands of Viking river cruisers about what they'd like to see in a new ocean-going ship – and what they didn't like about other lines' offerings.
That's why this ship (and its two sisters, Viking Sea and Viking Sky, which will launch in 2016 and 2017) is for over-18s only, and why there's no casino, ballroom, white-gloved service, art auctions or stuffy formal nights. It's also why there's free WiFi, free wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner, reasonably priced drinks at the bars, no extra-charge dining, a free excursion in every port (as well as an excellent choice of for-fee tours) and why the ship is the right size for calling into smaller ports.
Viking Cruises' founder and CEO, the canny and affable 72-year-old Torstein Hagen (whose life story would make a fascinating read) is fond of saying that ocean cruising is seen as the drinking man's cruise and river cruising as the thinking man's cruise. "We like to think of Viking of the thinking-man's ocean cruise," he said of his new line.
Another thing Hagen emphasises is not being everything to everyone.
"We are not promoting this as a luxury ship," he says. "We want to bring exploration back to cruising." Although there is a strong focus on "destination immersion" – in-depth port talks and expert speakers onboard every cruise, longer stays and overnights in ports than the industry norm – the ship itself has lots of things going for it.
Outdoor living is a big deal – Viking Star boasts more al fresco dining areas than any other cruise ship. The Aquavit Terrace (familiar to Viking river cruisers) is a spacious al fresco area leading from the World Cafe buffet and the glass doors of the The Dining Room can be opened to sea breezes when conditions are favourable.
You can exercise outside as well as in the fitness centre in the spa – on the top deck there are muscle-toning machines and a space for yoga classes, as well as a mini-golf course and shuffleboard courts. The main pool is set in the airy Wintergarden, which has a retractable roof for all-weather swimming; the poolside grill is open for lunch and afternoon snacks, and there's a bar and delicious afternoon tea service (scones, jam, cream, mini-sandwiches, cakes).
Wining and dining are much anticipated on any cruise. Manfredi's was my favourite venue, both for its decor and menu, and judging by the booking lists was everyone else's favourite, too. As you'd guess from its name, the cuisine is Italian (Tuscan, to be precise) – the menu is refreshingly short, the pasta made in-house and the mussels in a creamy citrus and vermouth sauce I sampled were perfect. There's a private dining room for 12 attached to the 110-guest restaurant; mirroring Manfredi's is The Chef's Table, which serves degustation menus with paired wines.
The Chef's Table is not to be confused with The Kitchen Table, a high-tech kitchen designed for cooking lessons. Catering to just 12 keen foodies at a time, these culinary adventures include shopping in the markets of select ports, then preparing and cooking a sumptuous meal under the expert guidance of the chef.
Another eatery, Mamsen's deli, is almost hidden away, adjacent to the light-filled Explorers Lounge on Deck 7. It was named after Hagen's mother and is open for light breakfasts, lunches and late-night snacks. Don't miss the pea soup and do try the distinctive brown Norwegian goat's cheese. If sweet treats are more your thing, there are berry-laden waffles and exquisite pastries.
The Explorers Lounge hosts one of Viking Star's six bars, and was where I caught one of the "Unexpected Moments" that pop up at random around the ship. This was a spirited recital of one of Shakespeare's sonnets; other mini-performances might be a dance, song or musical piece.
Torshavn is a clubby bar where you can catch various small-scale shows – it was standing room only for The Rat Pack Revisited, a talented tribute to crooners Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and Sammy Davis Jr. Armagnac aficionados can indulge in their favourite tipple here; the most expensive is a 1948 vintage that costs US$288 per shot.
Shows, lectures and movies are presented in the Star Theater and, due to popular demand, more local performers will be invited on board in the coming months. Movies are also screened by the pool. If you're a solo cruiser or looking to meet other travellers onboard, Kristina the charming Social Hostess organises informal cocktail get-togethers every evening, before and after dinner.
Our introductory cruise ended at Bergen, where Viking Star was christened by the charismatic Mayor of Bergen, Trude Drevland, after a starry host of Norwegian musicians performed in front of some 20,000 enthusiastic onlookers. It's the first Norwegian-flagged cruise ship in 10 years to home-port in Hagen's favourite city, and if you've never been there before, it's well worth booking one of the 15-day Viking Homelands cruises between Bergen and Stockholm next year – the 2015 season is already sold out.
Which just goes to show that all that research into passengers' wishes has already paid off big time. Sir Richard Branson is following suit by asking potential passengers to submit wish-lists for his new Virgin Cruise Line and he's no slouch at launching new businesses.
Meanwhile, Viking Cruises has just announced it will be sailing its first non-European itinerary next year, between New York and Canada for the autumn "leaf-peeping" season – will we see one of these beautiful, boutique vessels cruising in local waters anytime soon? Hagen makes it a rule not to rule out any possibilities.
TRIP NOTES
MORE INFORMATION
vikingcruises.com.au
GETTING THERE
Viking Star (and from next year Viking Sea) offers itineraries in Western, Eastern and Northern Europe and the Mediterranean, including winter cruises in the Mediterranean. They range from eight to 15 days, and can be combined for longer cruises.
STAYING THERE
The 15-day "Viking Homelands" cruises between Stockholm and Bergen visit Helsinki, St Petersburg, Tallinn (Estonia), Gdansk (Poland), Berlin, Copenhagen and Aalburg (Denmark), Stavanger and Flam (Norway). Fares start from $6599 for 2016 departures between May 1 and September 11.
DINING THERE
Viking Star has six dining venues: The Restaurant, World Cafe (buffet), Manfredi's, and The Chef's Kitchen. Mamsen's deli-style cafe serves Norwegian dishes and the Pool Grill is open for lunch and dinner.
FIVE FAB THINGS TO DO ONBOARD
SPA
Comprising a heated pool, saltwater jacuzzi, heated loungers, steam room, sauna and Snow Grotto (for the traditional bracing Nordic spa experience), this beautifully designed, spacious area is free to use.
SWIM
The main pool is in the Wintergarden, which has a retractable glass roof so you can swim or lounge poolside whatever the weather is doing outside. Viking Star also features an unusual glass-backed infinity pool that's cantilevered off the back of the ship.
READ & PLAY
There are books everywhere on the ship, not just in the library in the Living Room on Deck 1. Card tables and traditional board games such as Monopoly and Scrabble are available on the second floor of the Atrium.
KEEP FIT
The Fitness Centre on Deck 1 is equipped with all the latest gym machines and group yoga and pilates classes are free of charge. Personal training sessions are available for a fee, or just head outside to the promenade deck and do a few laps around the ship – four laps equals one mile.
LEARN
Viking is all about soaking up knowledge of the destinations visited on its cruises. Experts in subjects such as history, archaeology, astronomy and art deliver top-quality lectures in the Star Theatre.
