New Caledonia cruise on Carnival Spirit: Chasing the sun

We'd arrived at our first port of call, part of a nine-night cruise from Sydney to New Caledonia, early in the morning, flinging open the curtains to reveal jade-coloured waters, powder-white sandy beaches and the spindly native araucaria trees, which give the Isle of Pines its name. I've been a slow convert to the world of cruising. On my last cruise, I'd got off early. The food, entertainment and staff had all been excellent but I'd felt literally lost at sea and yearned for my own bed and a good latte.

This time, it feels different. Carnival Spirit, which entered the Australian market two years ago, is geared up for Australian travellers. Everything onboard is in Australian dollars, there are Australian power points and, to my relief, you can actually get a decent coffee.

And this ship is so much more active – perhaps because Biggest Loser trainer Shannan Ponton (Carnival's Australian ambassador) is onboard. Groups of keen passengers walk the decks with Ponton each morning; others take a spin class with him while a little more than 600 guests participate in the ship's second Biggest Bootcamp at Sea.

Australian cruisers apparently eat more salmon than American passengers, have less of a sweet tooth, like good coffee (coffee sales onboard Spirit are up 500 per cent compared to when the ship was based in the US) and like to spend more time as a family. We apparently also drink Americans under the table while on a cruise: gin and tonic sales up 200 per cent and our tipples of choice are sauvignon blanc and Jack Daniels whiskey.

As well as its trademark Green Thunder slide, Spirit offers 12 decks with everything from mini-golf to the Serenity adults-only area, a day spa, a water park, restaurants, bars, a theatre, two-deck fitness centre, jogging track, sports court and casino. It's a tad on the gaudy side, but there's something for everyone. A Melbourne couple we met head to the theatre every night, catching shows including Jazz Hot and Big Easy, while a New Zealand pair enjoy curling up with a book in a cabana in Serenity, probably the most tasteful and peaceful part of the ship. You can even learn towel art, if that's your bent.

I'm travelling with one of my best friends in a balcony cabin, which is cosy and comfortable. Each day we return to find our Indonesian steward has worked his magic, leaving towel-art creations from swans to elephants on our twin beds. We have afternoon tea at the Fountain Cafe, with its doorstop-sized cakes; cocktails in the Atrium Bar, where half the ship gathers at night. On days at sea we try a wine-appreciation class, head to the gym, have facials and walk the decks with the wind in our hair. And in the evenings we take a glass of wine out onto the balcony as the ship sets sail into another glorious tropical sunset.

The highlight for me is waking up in a new port, and seeing another slice of paradise just waiting to be explored. After the Isle of Pines, we stop at Lifou, another tropical utopia, in the Loyalty Islands. We snorkel there at Jinek Bay, one of the most amazing snorkeling sites I've encountered, and marvel at the magic, the hard coral, colourful clams and tropical fish. Earlier in the day we'd seen whales frolicking just offshore.

Afterwards, we stroll with wet hair back to the other side of the island where there's a local market where an island dance troupe dressed in fiery red performs and we sit in the sun tucking into chicken kebabs, cooked on a grill by a couple of Kanak children. Our dessert is freshly picked papaya from a local man, who carves it for us with a huge knife. Some from the cruise head for a historic chapel built by Catholic missionaries overlooking Santal Bay, others have their hair braided or enjoy an impromptu massage under a swaying palm tree. When we've had our fill of island life, the ship is a short ride away on one of the tender boats. Everything operates like clockwork.

We explore Noumea, stopping for pastries and a short black in one of the city's famous boulangeries, and stock up on French wine. We visit Mare, another little-known Pacific gem with its dazzling turquoise Yejele Beach and the Natural Aquarium, an incredible, natural freshwater emerald pool imprisoned by a coral wall. As we sail for home, the sun's rays silhouetting New Caledonia's distinct pines, I realise cruising has won me over.

BREAKOUT

FIVE THINGS TO DO ON BOARD

* Have an Elemis Oxydermy facial in Spa Carnival, combining micro-dermabrasion and oxygen in one super-relaxing treatment: $186 for 55 minutes.

* Take a "behind the fun ultimate tour", exploring the engine control room, main galley, staff dining areas, laundry and the ship's bridge: $95.

* Join a mini-martini tasting. Choose four flavoured martinis, made with Stolichnaya vodka, including Pomegranate Breeze, Spicy Chipotle, Classic Cosmo and more: $19.95.

* Ride the Green Thunder, the fastest, steepest waterslide at sea. This gut-wrenching slide begins with a countdown, followed by a near vertical drop onto the 55-metre-long twister. It's all over in about five seconds.

* While away an afternoon with a long lunch in the Nouveau Restaurant. For $30 a head, the three courses include grilled cold-water lobster, blue crab salad and fresh seafood platters (for an extra $20). Grilled duck breast, and vegetarian options are available, while bespoke wine pairings are an additional $20.

TRIP NOTES

MORE INFORMATION

carnival.com.au

CRUISING THERE

Carnival Spirit does a nine-night cruise to New Caledonia from Sydney taking in Lifou, Mare, Noumea and Isle of Pines. Prices from $899 per person twin share including accommodation, main meals and onboard entertainment. Carnival Spirit has been joined by revamped sister ship, Carnival Legend, which offers the Red Frog Pub, Bonsai Sushi, Cherry On Top lolly shop and the cruise lines' Seuss at Sea program for families. Carnival Spirit and Carnival Legend offer return Pacific Island cruises from Sydney ranging from eight-12 days as well as weekend getaways. Phone 13 31 94.

DINING THERE

Carnival Spirit has five dining options. The two-deck Empire dining room offers three-course a la carte menus, Nouveau Restaurant ($40 cover charge) is an upmarket grill, Lido Restaurant has 10 international food stations, Fat Jimmy's offers barbecue, while Freshies, named after Sydney's Freshwater Beach, favourites include prawns in a bucket and fish and chips. Two cafes onboard offer barista-made coffee, at an additional cost, while complimentary pizza and ice cream is available 24/7.