Hot and spicy in Mexico: the chili experience

In Mexico it’s the chili that defines the dish, its color and even its name. This voyage around the country will help you choose your favourite – or, for the chili-shy, which ones to avoid.

Chilies originated in Central and South America where humans have been eating them since 7500 BC. From Mexico, Spaniards (and then Portuguese) spread chilies to the rest of the world: it’s hard to imagine that before this there was no Indian vindaloo, Thai green curry, or paprika for Hungarian goulash.

Chile poblano

Test your luck with a chili that is sometimes mild and makes good comfort food, but sometimes scorching.

From: Puebla.

Heat Rating: Mild to very hot. 1000-10,000 Scovilles.

Tasting: Long, fat poblano chilies are enjoyed green for their light capsicum flavour. They’re usually almost spiceless, but some rebels will pop up in dishes that are eye-watering.

Dishes: Chiles en nogada is a patriotic dish from Puebla just to the east of Mexico City that uses plump, poblano chilies to stuff with meat and cover with bright red pomegranate seeds, and a walnutty white sauce. The red, white and green colours of the chiles en nogada match the Mexican flag, making it a traditional Mexican Independence Day dish.

To really taste the poblano chili, Mexicans turn to chile relleno. Poblano chilies are stuffed with a mild, white panela cheese and fried in an egg batter. As you cut into it, the cheese melts out and that simple green flavour emerges.

Try it: Restaurante Sacristía, Puebla; Fonda el Refugio, Mexico City; Festival del Chile, Puebla.

Jalapeño

Since originating in Jalapa (also spelled Xalapa), capital of Veracruz state on Mexico’s central-east coast, the jalapeño has become quite the international traveller, spreading as far as Vietnam where it often crowns pho soup. It’s also the chili of choice for Tex-Mex food.

Description: A gentle, full-flavoured chili with a little zing.

From: Jalapa/Xalapa.

Heat rating: Fairly Hot. 2500-9000 Scovilles.

Tasting: Jalapeños have a thick, crunchy skin, medium spice (though this can vary) and a green capsicum flavour. They are chopped up into chunky salsa verde, a thick, green sauce made with juicy tomatillos (green tomato-like fruit) found on the tables of most fondas (small family restaurants) and eateries in Mexico. The salsa has a way of bringing to life the flavours of the food it graces. It’s well balanced and lets the cilantro/coriander sing through.

Dishes: Pickled jalapeños en escabeche liven up street snacks or antojitos (‘little cravings’) such as tortas (avocado, tomato and burger-worthy fillings in a hefty bread bun). It teams with refreshing onion to cut through any greasiness. Heap as many jalapeños as you like into your tacos or quesadillas (folded over pan-fried corn tortillas filled with mushrooms or meat and oozy cheese).