Uruguay has long been known as a beach destination that provides everything from the rustic andunplugged Cabo Polonia in the north-east to the playground of the continents yachting class in Punta delEste. Recently however, tourism has been moving off the sands and inland, largely thanks to a small dark redgrape, Tannat.
Some 35 years ago a quiet revolution began in the wineries of the country; standard practices in thevineyards and the cellar were completely changed as new ideas flowed in, vineyards were re-planted tovines of world class quality and equipment upgraded to modern standards. In the 90s their new vines andtechniques came of age and with the support of international consultants from California, Australia and NewZealand, they started exporting wines good enough to catch the eye of top critics and sommeliers.
In Tannat they had a unique and almost unheard of grape, and though considerably less romantic than theirneighbours Malbec or Carmenere it is a capable of making powerful, elegant and most of all, interestingwines. This grape, originally from Madiran, France, found in Uruguay a climate and soils which allowed it todevelop and mature like it never had in European soils where it is seen as a harsh, unruly and overly tannicwine. In fact it grew so well that it was only once wine-makers begun to drastically cut back the amount ofgrapes produced that its true potential for quality wine showed.
So Uruguay developed its boutique wine industry, focusing on low quantity production, high quality winesand packaging them with the charm which the small, family owned wineries have in spades. They got a footin the international wine worlds door with the curiosity keys: Have you ever tasted a Tannat? How abouta wine from Uruguay? And once interest was piqued they followed up with a range of good quality wines.Beyond huge, inky Tannats with well tamed tannins (and a number of very good blends) their white winesare excellent; Sauvignon Blancs are crisp and fruity with many examples showing a tendency to developgrapefruit notes and a particular treat is an Italian variety Albario with richly perfumed aromas and highacidity.
In recent years exports have continued growing and international recognition expanding and in 2005 agroup of family owned wineries got together to form Las Caminos del Vino (The Wine Roads) with the goalof developing a tourism infrastructure to meet a growing demand from visitors. Since then they have setfour principal dates in the annual calendar that any visitor would do well to bear in mind as these festivalsoffer a unique chance to get to know the wineries, their wines and the people involved.
During each festival the wineries involved will offer tastings and set menus and during the harvest andpruning period, the chance to get your hands dirty in the Uruguayan vineyards.
March Harvest Festival
June Tannat and Lamb Festival (Tannat and the rich, fatty Uruguayan lamb make a spectacular pair.)
August Pruning Festival and Creole Cuisine
November Wine and Arts Festival
For more details look up their website www.loscaminosdelvino.com.uy
A number of other wineries not involved in this group have excellent offerings for tourists all year round.The boutique winery Bodega Bouza, only ten minutes from Montevideo, stands out as an ultra-professionalenterprise with a top class restaurant on the premises and offering daily tours. In 2013 the newly foundedBodega Garzn on the coast near Punta del Este will open its multi-million dollar estate and tasting rooms tothe public.
The best way to really get to know Uruguayan wine is to get a map, a rental car and spend a few weeksvisiting small wineries on out of the way routes. You should always call beforehand to make arrangements,but it is well worth the extra effort as you can easily find yourself drinking a glass of Uruguays finest alongwith the owner or winemaker and quickly falling under the spell of this countrys charm.
When to go?
Summer is peak season in Uruguay and so prices and tourist traffic are significantly increased. Still, if youlove the lively beach vibe, this is your time. Do bear in mind that in January you will find most of the wineriesunderstaffed or even closed for the summer holidays.
Spring or early autumn are the best months to visit as the crowds have thinned out, the weather istemperate and warm and the winemakers have moved into a time of relative calm.
How to find your way around?
For an excellent resource for current events and information on some 60 wineries around the country lookup: www.bodegasdeluruguay.com.uy
A new book Gua de Bodegas y Vinos de Uruguay (Guide to the Wineries and Wines of Uruguay, co-written by Greg de Villiers) will also be an invaluable resource for planning your tour. It is available in mostbookstores around the country and features a series of maps and detailed information on 33 wineries andtheir wines.
