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Perths foodie culture reinvigorates the West Australian capital

TIME : 2016/2/26 17:14:49

If you haven't been to Perth lately, you are in for a surprise. The small-scale revolution has hit the west coast in a big way, with bars, restaurants and hybrid outlets emerging right across the city. From newly hip Northbridge to seaside Fremantle, these freshly baked venues are joining a handful of local favourites that have led the way. They range from speakeasy-style bars to urban garden settings, serving everything from gourmet bread to Asian-inspired meals to coffee in vintage surroundings. Add some of these to the itinerary for your next visit.

1.   SHADOW WINE BAR AND DINING ROOM

Its exposed concrete and steel beam fit-out, complete with comfy booths, seems made for late-night rendezvous, but Perth's newest venue is deliberately versatile, welcoming guests from noon until late. You could come in for a quick bite at the bar, an early evening drink or a nightcap; what you would be missing out on, however, is the delicious dinner menu. They specialise in rethinking old favourites: the jazzed-up macaroni cheese with mushrooms is wonderfully light, while lemon jelly, vanilla tapioca and almond sponge turns a humble trifle into a work of art.

214 William Street, 08 6430 4010, shadowwinebar.com.au

2.       THE STANDARD

There are a number of ways to enjoy The Standard: on a sunny afternoon, knocking back some rosé  in the back garden surrounded by leafy plants, or at night with a feast of share plates spread over the table, watching the action in the open kitchen set to a killer soundtrack. The wide-ranging menu takes you on a trip around the world. Graze your way through Asia  (a crisp eggplant salad with grapefruit caramel; chicken grill with rice noodles) or fill up on some hearty European fare, such as a beef brisket with Russian dressing and buttered cabbage.

26 Roe St, Northbridge, 08 9228 1331, thestandardperth.com.au

3.       APPLE DAILY

There are several storeys of gastronomic delight to choose from in the gorgeous Print Hall building, which once housed The West Australian's main printing press. The one we keep coming back to is the Apple Daily Bar & Eating House, overlooking the glamorous main bar. The flavour-packed Asian fusion menu is filled with winners, but you can't go past the sensational teriyaki beef short ribs. Also worth checking out are the house cocktails.

Brookfield Place, St Georges Terrace, 08 6282 0000, printhall.com.au

4.       UNCLE JOE'S MESS HALL

What do you get when you cross a barber shop with a cafe? Something like this tres cool hangout. It's on the same hipster-heavy stretch of King Street as Varnish wine bar, and channels much of the same Brooklyn vibe. The menu is fairly straightforward, but the people watching is great, with creative types brainstorming their latest ideas on the comfy couches.

76 King Street, 08 9321 4502, unclejoes.com.au

5.       BEAUFORT STREET MERCHANTS

Browsing the temptation-laden shelves of this upmarket providore is bound to whet your appetite, so after you have picked up some gourmet nibbles, stay for a meal. We are partial to their platters – try the charcuterie option, with rabbit terrine, chicken liver parfait and prosciutto – but with choices ranging from pork belly to tempura soft shell crab, there is something to suit every appetite.

488 Beaufort St, Mount Lawley, 08 9328 6299, beaufortmerchant.com

6.       MOANA COFFEE

As the crowds ebb through Hay Street Mall, few of them ever look up. They don't know what they are missing. While the ground level is given over to glossy shopfronts, the first floor facades of many of the grand old buildings have been preserved. If you want to get up close and personal with these lovely designs, head for Moana Coffee.  Housed on the first floor of a former law chambers, and with the original interior still intact, the cafe has a lovely balcony and superior coffee, with a small exhibition space tucked in behind.

618 Hay St, 0467 667 849, moanacoffee.com.au

7.       ELMAR'S

Wondering why those people are wasting their weekend queuing along the Beaufort Street sidewalk? They are waiting for a sausage. Perth's best sausage sizzle happens every Saturday at this German butcher, which has the most delicious bratwurst in town. If a taste of their snags whets your appetite, head to the Swan Valley, where Elmar and his wife Annette also run a restaurant.

493 Beaufort St Highgate, 08 9328 4050, elmars.com.au

8.       LOT 20

It's an odd shape, Lot 20: small, squared-off spaces, high ceilings. When a staffer explains that this was once the stables for Perth's police horses – and the upstairs restaurant was once the hayloft – it all makes sense. We love their mulled wine and the fact that, in the cosy downstairs bar – decorated street-art style – you can order anything from white anchovies on toast to wombok and red cabbage with mint, coriander and toasted peanut vinaigrette.

198 William Street, 08 6162 1195, lot20.co

9.       SNEAKY TONY'S

Sneaky is the right word for this speakeasy-style rum bar, hidden behind an unmarked fire door in one of the tangle of alleys in Chinatown. (No, we're not allowed to tell you which one.) They take the keep-the-secret vibe seriously, right down to needing a password to get in at the weekend (check their Facebook page). Inside the dimly lit space, a staggering selection of rums is available.

facebook.com/sneakytonys

10.   BREAD IN COMMON

Why has this Fremantle outlet become Perth's favourite brunch spot? Is it the space – a hip converted warehouse – or the menu designed for sharing, taking in everything from quinoa salad to burnt toast ice-cream? It might be the passion that is evident in every aspect of the operation: you have to admire owners who love cheese so much that they included a separate cheese menu. It could be the fact that they serve brunch until 4pm. But what it probably comes down to is the irresistible bread, fresh from the two in-house ovens.

43 Pakenham St, Fremantle, 08 9336 1032, breadincommon.com.au