Grand espresso tour

A week, however, was what we had - and the more we thought about it, the more we realised it might be doable. What makes Italy such a fabulous destination? The centuries of history, the magnificent artwork, the streets, the natural beauty. Surely it would be possible to put together an itinerary that would give us a taste of all those things?

Rome was a no-brainer: 2000 years of glory packed into a single, walkable city. Our second destination, we decided, should showcase a different side of the country. Milan, with its high-style streets and bars, seemed a good choice. And once we had Milan, we knew where we wanted to end up: the gorgeous landscapes of the Italian lakes.

Days 1 to 3

Rome: Glory and grandeur

The most important thing to pack for a Roman holiday is a good pair of walking shoes. The main sights are conveniently clustered in the Centro Storico, or historical centre, and walking between them gives you the joy of random discoveries - a sun-drenched piazza, an ornately carved fountain, a glimpse into the courtyard of a private palazzo - that are among the highlights of any Roman holiday.

Once we've checked in to our hotel near the Spanish Steps, we head out. Passing the people-watchers and the high-end boutiques of the Via Condotti, we head east towards the Quirinale Hill. The magnificently carved columns guarding the Palazzo Barberini tempt us to take a look inside - the museum's impressive collection features Caravaggios and Raphaels, among others - but we promise to come back next time. Instead, we head for the crossroads of Via del Quirinale and Via del XX Settembre, known as the Quattro Fontane, or Four Fountains, for the elegant 16th-century fountains on each corner, designed to give pilgrims access to fresh water.

Quattro Fontane is home to churches designed by two of Rome's greatest baroque masters, Bernini and Borromini. Bernini, perhaps Rome's most prolific architect, pulled out all the stops for the opulent church of Sant'Andrea del Quirinale. By contrast, San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane, designed by his great rival, Borromini, has a serene minimalism. Both of them are stunning.

From here, we head back west, passing by the famous Trevi Fountain before wandering the scenic warren of streets leading south. This is classic Rome - ivy-covered Renaissance facades, tiny piazzas and unexpected details - ornate fountains or carved figureheads over doors, around every corner.

Soon we reach the famous Piazza Navona, where chariots once raced. We stop for a drink and some people-watching.

This is another great area for random wandering, but it's worth finding the church of San Luigi dei Francesi, just off the piazza, another spectacular baroque church, which also contains three of Caravaggio's best paintings.

It's just a short walk to the Pantheon, one of Rome's most amazing buildings, crowned by a spectacular dome. Originally built as a temple in 27BC, it was converted into a church in AD608. Enchanted by its magnificence and its history, Raphael chose to be buried here.

Dinner time is approaching, so we head on to the Campo de Fiori, a cafe-laden square that buzzes all hours of the day and night. After dinner we feel refreshed enough to wander slowly back to the hotel, savouring a gelato along the way.

On our second day, we turn our attention to ancient Rome. Our first stop is the Colosseum, where gladiators once fought each other and wild species. Until you get here, it's hard to appreciate the size of this massive amphitheatre, which could house 80,000 spectators. Most fascinating is the chance to see the small compartments in which animals were housed before being let loose.

We take a few moments to marvel at the massive Arch of Constantine next door, before heading off to today's main attraction. The Roman Forum was the heart of ancient Rome, a place for politics, religion and commerce. Today it's largely ruins, but with a detailed map (pick one up at the entrance) and a bit of imagination, it's easy to transport yourself back to the days when Caesar strode these streets.

The triumphal arch of Septimus Severus is well preserved, but even the neighbouring ruins are revealing. The worn steps and stumps of brick pillars indicate the dimensions of Julius Caesar's enormous Basilica, and the partly reconstructed House of the Vestal Virgins gives you a sense of the home of the priestesses of the Temple of Vesta, revered by Romans.

Before we know it, the afternoon has passed. We head across the river to Trastevere and have an early dinner at Glass, one of Rome's most inventive restaurants.

Our last day is technically not spent in Rome but in the world's smallest state - Vatican City. We take the scenic route there, crossing the Ponte Sant'Angelo, lined with Bernini's elegant angels and passing the imposing fortress of the Castel Sant'Angelo on our way to St Peter's Basilica. It took 150 years to build, with masters including Bramante, Raphael and Michelangelo all working on it. The interiors are awe-inspiring (be sure to take a look at Michelangelo's Pieta), but just as impressive is the view from the top of Michelangelo's dome.

Our next stop is the Vatican Museum, the sort of place you could easily spend days exploring. With limited time, we have to make some choices. The Sistine Chapel is a must, of course, but there are also splendid collections of Roman and Etruscan statues; the beautiful Raphael rooms; and a magnificent spiral staircase, designed to be wide enough to drive a horse up.

By the end of the day, we're tired but triumphant. Not only have we ticked off everything on our list, we've also had plenty of opportunities to soak up the beauty hidden in the city's secret corners. We've done well.

Days 4 to 5

Milan: Culture and couture

Early in the morning we head for Termini station to jump on the express train to Milan. This may be the sleekest train in Italy. It does the non-stop journey to Milan in just 3½ hours, and the first-class section where we're sitting is like a business-class plane cabin: think comfortable reclining leather seats and drinks service, but with free wireless thrown in. Best of all, it's covered by a standard Rail Europe pass - but you do need to book an individual seat on the train, otherwise you won't be allowed on.

The other great benefit of travelling by train is that you arrive in the middle of town, meaning we have just a short trip to our hotel, so we're ready to get out exploring that much sooner.

We've actually missed our opportunity to see Milan's most famous attraction, The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci. Tickets to see the masterpiece sell out far in advance, and we just didn't get in early enough. Normally, that would have been our first port of call today. Instead, we take a stroll.

Grandeur is the order of the day. The La Scala opera house is ornate, but it's overshadowed by Il Duomo. It took 500 years to build this cavernous cathedral, which can hold 40,000 people.

The interiors are surprisingly serene, although a statue depicting the flaying of St Bartholomew is notably gruesome.

My favourite building in this part of town, however, is the gorgeous Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. This 19th-century shopping mall with its exquisitely decorated walls and glass roof provides a handy short cut between the Duomo and La Scala, and offers some of the best people-watching in Milan.

For sheer fashion power per square kilometre, you'd be hard-pressed to find anywhere that outshines the Quadrilatero d'Oro - the Golden Square. Just north of the Duomo, these four streets - Via Montenapoleone, Via Della Spiga, Via Borgospesso and Via Sant'Andrea - are lined with designer boutiques. The Armani megastore is also a short walk away: more than 700 square metres of Armani excess, from fashion to homewares, books, restaurants, even a florist and hotel.

By now it's early evening, and time for a Milanese ritual. Straight after work, the Milanese head out to enjoy an aperitivo, an after-work drink accompanied by a range of complimentary nibbles.

In some places, it's simply olives or cheese; in others, you'll get generous serves of bruschetta, pizza and even pasta. We linger at Biffi, a beautiful cafe dating back to 1847, before dropping in to Fresco Art, where the crowd's cool factor suggests many of them are students at the European Design Institute. By the time we've finished, we decide dinner isn't really necessary.

The next morning, it's time to visit the city's best museum, the Pinacoteca di Brera. This atmospheric gallery specialises in mediaeval and Renaissance art, and features works by Raphael, Caravaggio, Tintoretto and Rembrandt, among others.

After a morning in the museum, we spend the afternoon browsing the Brera neighbourhood, where designers and students like to hang out. The cobbled streets are lined with a range of boutiques and bars - here you can find everything from the city's best vintage shop, Cavalli e Nastri, to the best buffalo mozzarella in town, at Chiu. I have to tear myself away from Profumo, a lovely perfume shop housed in a 16th-century palazzo.

Before we know it, the day is gone, so it's back to the Quadrilatero d'Oro for a classic Milanese dinner: handmade pasta at Bice, a trattoria that has been serving locals for almost 100 years.

Days 6 to 7

Orta: Lakeside retreat

Having crammed a lot into our week, some downtime is called for. Fortunately, we've factored in a quick visit to the lake district, a favourite retreat for locals. We've chosen to avoid the tourist magnets of lakes Garda, Como and Maggiore. Instead, we're heading for the little-known Lake Orta, which locals have kept a carefully guarded secret. After two hours on the train, we arrive at the station, just a short walk from our hotel, the Villa Crespi.

Like many guests, we've been lured to the Villa Crespi by its restaurant, which has two Michelin stars. We're delighted to find the hotel itself is a gem: a Moorish-inspired flight of fancy with an ornately decorated facade and sumptuous rooms with elaborately inlaid wooden floors, oversize bathrooms and four-poster beds. We feel as if we've stepped into One Thousand and One Nights, and are glad we've made no plans to go anywhere today.

The next day, powered by our degustation dinner the night before, it's time to go sightseeing. It's an easy stroll from the hotel to the lake, a tranquil body of water fringed by wooded hills. Perched on the shore is the tiny town of Orta San Giulio, its mediaeval streets only open to pedestrians. We take the quick ferry ride to the tiny island of San Giulio, dominated by an ancient Benedictine monastery. After having a look inside the surprisingly ornate church, with a gorgeously carved 800-year-old pulpit made of green marble, we follow the Path of Silence, which takes you on a contemplative stroll around the monastery. Through gaps between the villas, we catch glimpses of terracotta pots filled with geraniums and swallows wheeling above the lake. It's an incredibly peaceful place. By the time we head back to the hotel to pack our bags, we feel restored and revived.

The verdict: Our seven days have been jam-packed, but between ancient ruins, Renaissance masterpieces and fabulous meals, we've had a true taste of Italy. And we even had time for a lakeside retreat - now that's la dolce vita!

Ute Junker travelled courtesy of Rail Europe.

Trip notes

Getting there

Thai Airways International flies daily to Bangkok with connections to Rome four days a week. thaiairways.com.au.

Travelling there

A one-week Eurail Italy pass costs $383 for adults and $193 for children (first class). Seat reservations - compulsory on high-speed services - are not included. They can be pre-purchased online at raileurope.com.au before departure.

Staying there

Rome Hotel de Russie, Via del Babuino, +39 06 328 881, hotelderussie.it. The only thing better than the location at the Spanish steps is the green oasis at the heart of this hotel. Room rates start at €468 ($595).

Milan Grand Hotel Villa Torretta, Via Milanese, +39 02 241 121, mgallery.com. Room rates start at €88. This atmospheric, converted 17th-century mansion has a serene location in the leafy Parco Nord.

Orta Villa Crespi , Via Fava, Orta San Giulio, +39 0322 911 902, villacrespi.it. Room rates start at €250. This charming villa by Lake Orta has just 14 rooms and a restaurant with two Michelin stars.