THE LOCATION

Housed across the former department store in the Gowings Building and above the State Theatre, the hotel is an ideal spot for blow-ins finding their way around the city. There's another grand building opposite, the late 19th-century QVB, for retail delights, and the Botanic Gardens, Hyde Park, the Harbour Bridge and Opera House are within walking distance.

THE SPACE

QT's doors opened in 2012 with a flurry with much made of its red-wigged Directors of Chaos and its fitout, a riot of bespoke furniture, digital art and lifts with sensors which play a different tune depending on the number of bodies inside. But it's all new to me as is the history associated with the building and its restored features of art deco, gothic and Italian design. Floorboards squeak underfoot, and original doors to the guests' rooms pay homage to the building's past before its current identity. The wigged woman isn't just a pretty face either; whistling for a taxi and hauling my bag into the boot with a big smile.

THE ROOM

There are 200 rooms in 12 different styles; I'm in the corner suite, spacious and moody in red and yellow tones with bucket seat, leather pouffes and a desk. Despite the temptations of the Mad Men-esque cocktail station (espresso martini kit is $27 and makes two cocktails), I head straight for the Nespresso machine. The bathroom of grey with backlit glass cabinets filled with perfume bottles is dreamy, as is the circular bath and separate shower with excellent drainage, not a strong point for many hotels. If the Kashwere bathrobe doesn't have a sedative effect, such is their softness (you can buy them on checkout), then head straight for the QT bed, 82 kilograms with a gel layer and pillow top. "Say hi to the old tart for me," says a friend on the phone referring to her old home town as the neon lights blink through the sheer curtains of my room.

STEPPING OUT

There's plenty to explore within the hotel; work your way through the big menu of the bustling Gowings Bar and Grill and the Gilt Lounge for cocktails. The day spa and barber are open to outside guests. Otherwise there's Parlour Lane Roasters on Market Street (said to be the busiest street corner in Australia) for a decent latte. At the State Theatre next door The Glenn Miller Orchestra is playing in June, Aladdin and his Wondrous Lamp in August.

THE VERDICT

A hotel that gives you licence for a decadent weekend and a big departure from the standard five-star hotel.

Hold onto your hats.

ESSENTIALS

QT Sydney, 49 Market Street, Sydney NSW 2000

Phone (02) 8262 0000; see www.qtsydney.com.au 

The starting price for a room is $380 which includes wifi, inroom movies, Nespresso pods and complementary use of the Virgin active health club in Pitt Street.

The writer travelled and stayed as a guest of the hotel.

HIGHLIGHTS

A decent night's sleep in the heart of a big city thanks to the super-comfortable mattress.

LOWLIGHTS

I miss the memo about gym access.