THE SPACE

Despite the name, this isn't actually a "lodge" but a luxury holiday park of 19 self-contained log cabins and 21 contemporary timber "deluxe spa chalets" (all cabins and chalets have one, two or three bedrooms) scattered across nine hectares on the rim of this peaceful, east-facing bay. Every cabin/chalet has a bush view or a water view through towering eucalypts. There's a restaurant on site (see below) as well as a native bird wetland, tennis courts, a playground and a barbecue area.

THE KIT

My one-bedroom deluxe spa chalet is warm, comfortable and earthy, bringing the Tasmanian wilderness inside with natural touches such as leaf-patterned cushions, a wall-hanging made of sticks and banksia-patterned placemats. There's an open-plan kitchen, lounge and dining area, a bedroom with king-size bed, and water views from every room; even the spa bath has its own large window. Sliding glass doors from the lounge open onto a spacious timber deck also facing the bay. There's a flat-screen television, Bose CD/DVD player (and DVDs at reception for guests to borrow), dishwasher, washing machine and dryer, hairdryer, safe and Sony clock radio with iPod dock. WiFi is available only in the restaurant, for a $5 one-off charge.

COMFORT

On my first morning, I woke to a "still life of a Tasmanian forest" through the enormous window in front of the bed. Everything was silent and calm; all the cabins and chalets are well off the main road, so even at the busiest times you'll hear birdsong and the lapping of waves, not traffic, and I didn't see or hear anyone in neighbouring chalets. This being Tasmania, which can be chilly any time of year, I greatly appreciated the heated bathroom light, electric blanket, reverse-cycle air-conditioning and spa bath. The deluxe vibe is let down slightly by generic toiletries and tea/coffee-making amenities; a few small touches would make a big difference, such as bathrobes to snuggle into after a bath, a wool blanket or wrap on the couch and earth-friendly toiletries (although it's good to know the lodge uses rainwater, solar hot water and earth-coloured rather than bleached-white towels).

FOOD

Gabriel's on the Bay, the restaurant on site, does excellent buffet breakfasts (8am - 10am) with home-made yoghurt, poached pears and rhubarb, bircher muesli, freshly made cooked options, a good selection of teas and percolated coffee, and espressos are available for no extra charge. It's also open for lunch (noon - 2pm) and dinner (5.30pm - 8pm Thursdays to Mondays). The simple dinner menus showcase Tasmania's unbeatable fresh, local produce, particularly seafood, locally farmed oysters and Tasmanian wines. In summer, you can dine outside on the patio with views of Stewarts Bay beach through the trees; in winter, book a window table to watch wild pademelons (Tasmanian wallabies) eat pieces of carrot.

STEPPING OUT

A visit to Port Arthur is a must (if you walk there from the lodge, you can buy your entry ticket at reception). Other drawcards on the Tasman Peninsula are the marine life and the highest sea cliffs in the southern hemisphere, which you can see on a three-hour wilderness cruise with Tasman Island Cruises. For an underwater perspective, there's a new Wild Ocean Tasmania experience, where you lie on a floating platform (drysuits, masks and snorkels are provided) and peer at seals, dolphins and giant kelp forests below. Other new places worth visiting are Port Arthur Lavender and Bangor Wine & Oyster Shed. You can also hire bikes, fishing rods and tennis racquets at reception.

THE VERDICT

Stewarts Bay Lodge is a comfortable, peaceful and well-situated base for exploring the Tasman Peninsula and a beautiful refuge from Tasmania's wild, and sometimes chilly, weather.

ESSENTIALS

Stewarts Bay Lodge, 6955 Arthur Highway, Port Arthur, Tasmania 7182. Log cabins from $145 a night; deluxe chalets from $199 a night including breakfast. See stewartsbaylodge.com.au