After an over night train ride, the night after having an overnight plane ride, I wouldn’t generally think my wits are at their most fine tuned. Thankfully after arriving in Luxor and checking into a hotel I find I can still notice a red herring when I see one.
Arriving just after sun up, I wander out of the station like a bleary eyed turtle, shuffling along the dusty morning streets, slowly being swept alive and rousing to the smells of fresh bread and coffee. I’m bound for a room close by and am silently praying to the Egyptian gods that it is open. Success. I’m greeted by a sleepy eyed, young man with yellow stained teeth, who quotes me a price for a nice room and a price for a not-as-nice room. Chatting pleasantly we head up the stairs to check them out, the expensive room (₤35) is nice – and bright with a big double bed, air conditioning, a little balcony and clean bathroom. The ₤20 room has crackled paint, two shabby single beds and tiles falling off the bathroom walls – we both know which I’m going to choose.
Luxor – ‘world’s greatest open air museum’
In this situation all you can do is weigh up the pro’s and con’s and go with your instinct. I was tired and hungry. I felt irritated but not unsafe. I rationalise they are not going to try anything a second time lest I go trumpeting it around to all and sundry, its clean, semi-cheap and in a local neighbourhood with a nice rooftop courtyard. My mind bounces back and forth but I decide to stay. Under different circumstances with more energy I may swing the other way but it turns out to be an agreeable decision. At the end of long, hot days spent wandering around the markets and ruins and the exhausting efforts of fending off the relentless and tenacious touts, it’s a nice relief to farewell the main area and escape to my little local neighbourhood terrace. Under the stars, on faded cushions, smoking sweet smelling sheesha to the sounds of the call to prayer echoing around the city, I manage to forgive Egypt it scams and challenges as just another part of its unique personality.
