As the pianist sang, I watched a couple sitting at the table opposite in evening gown and white DJ sipping cocktails. It could quite easily have been 1934 instead of 2004 and yet outside La Mamounia’s art deco walls lay a city that appeared to be stuck in quite a different time warp.
A trip to Marrakech would not be the same without staying at La Mamounia. Not only is the infamous hotel located right inside the 12th century ramparts, but the ancient walls form one of the boundaries to the hotel’s picturesque orange tree garden, tennis courts and idyllic pool. The main square – Djemmaa el Fna – and the souks are a pleasant 15 minute walk away but you need never worry about sleeping in and missing the sights as even closer is the Koutoubia mosque. Every morning at sunrise the mystical chants float from its 203 feet minaret to your room and if that doesn’t wake you then the birds will, as they swoop from balcony to orange tree and back again.
Despite the early awakening the hotel is an oasis of calm and tranquillity. Cool marble covered by large rumpled rugs and pink rose petals floating in fountains greet you as you walk through its doors and into the glamour of the 1930’s. It’s hard to imagine that you are in Morocco as it feels so very French. Even the guests hanging out in the lobby look like they have walked out of the pages of Vogue. Although it is extremely tempting to stay surrounded by art deco opulence, there is a tangible force that pulls you time and time again out into the streets of Marrakech.
Unless you enjoy getting completely lost in a strange city, you really need a guide to help you explore the real medina away from the tourist areas next to the Djemmaa el Fna. Finding a guide is easy as they lie in wait across the road from the hotel ready to offer their services. Don’t worry if you miss them when you leave the hotel as they will find you in the nearby park whose paths leads you to the Koutoubia mosque and the city behind. If you decide to accept the assistance of any local always negotiate a fixed price in advance which will avoid any unpleasant scenes later.
Local EntertainmentIn the souks near the square we were greeted in French, Italian and English. Euros, dollars and sterling were accepted everywhere and made exchanging money into local currency – Dirhams – redundant. Bartering is obligatory and the rules straight forward. If you play along, its great fun but don’t be surprised if your opening bid of half the asking price is laughed at. With three silver lanterns wrapped in newspaper and a cake box full of sticky patisseries we left Djemmaa el Fna struggling against a tide of people still pouring in on foot or by horse and carriage (caleches).
Back at the hotel, totally invigorated, we showered and changed into our smartest clothes before heading down to the Piano Bar for a night cap. As three out of the hotel’s five restaurants require a jacket and tie, this is not the kind of bar one wears jeans. Even the poolside restaurant for lunch required a reservation and a certain amount of dressing up. Who would have thought you could feel so underdressed in Marrakech but the next time I will know better.
La Mamounia and Marrakech both compliment and contradict each other. One minute you can be watching a snake charmer whilst drinking freshly squeezed orange juice and the next you are sipping champagne cocktails in the same bar frequented by the likes of Winston Churchill. If being able to experience two different eras and two different worlds in the same place isn’t magic – what is?
