There are two Morocco’s that exist within the same borders on the map.
One is the well-known Morocco, popular with tourists. The second is the road less traveled, or what I came to call “the Other Morocco” during my ten week visit to this bizarre and fascinating land.
The tourist trail is well-trod in this North African nation, and for good reason. The locales frequented by travelers have much to offer, and each has it own unique and exotic character.
The confusing labyrinthine marketplace of Fes transports the visitor back into another time. The beautiful northern town of Chefchouen, its rounded blue-white buildings tucked against the soaring Rif Mountains, offers picturesque peacefulness. The coastal town of Essouira impresses one with its Portuguese fortress and its local artwork. Casablanca has the most colorful outdoor food market in the entire country.
This is also the Morocco made famous for it’s hassles and its scams. Most days in these cities, one feels that if it were not for money, the local people would have nothing to do with the traveler. Indeed, it seems that friendship here is not given freely, but bought and sold. This can be a discouraging experience, leaving one feeling like an unwelcome outsider.
The Other Morocco
However, there is another Morocco.
This is the Morocco of quiet villages, never empty tea pots, and open-armed hospitality. The stranger receives endless invitations to share a meal, attend traditional festivities, and sleep in the simple homes of the Berber people, all within the most striking scenery that the country has to offer.
This is the more rewarding Morocco, though it is not as easy to find and most travelers never venture there. However, with a few simple strategies, and a few essential tools, “the other Morocco” is an attainable destination for those with the inclination to reach it.
“The other Morocco” can be found in the villages of the Atlas Mountains, a stunningly beautiful and rugged range. Stone and mud settlements and cascading terraced fields line the stream beds of this high, dry, and rocky terrain. Shepherds traverse the countryside with their flocks. Women work the fields in kaleidoscope colored dresses, babies slung on their backs.
And five times a day, in these places in the middle of nowhere, the air resonates with adulations to Allah.
Marrakech
The city of Marrakech serves as a good base for forays into these mountain villages, and is a place in itself not to be missed. The life of the central square, the Jma el Fna, fits the image that the word Morocco evokes. As the sun sets, it becomes jammed with food stalls and street entertainers, including snake charmers, medicine men, acrobats, musicians, and storytellers. This is not just a tourist show, for on any given night there are more Marrakichis than foreigners.
Just off the square is the Hotel Ali, the low budget place to stay. It is the only place in Morocco that I found to resemble Rick’s Caf� Americain from the film “Casablanca”, a hive of activity with multiple spheres of action operating simultaneously (though there is no gambling room in the back). For those on a real budget, it is possible to sleep on a mattress on the rooftop terrace for half the price and twice the fun of a room.
Erdouz Valley
One great place to explore from Marrakech is the Erdouz Valley. The easiest way to get there is to share a taxi (20 dirham – about $2) to the town of Amezmiz. Local transport in the form of four-wheel-drive vans leave from there and travel up and down the Erdouz.
The villages furthest from Amezmiz, those of Ait Dawd and Al-Medinat, are the most beautiful, tucked among walnut groves and apple orchards at the base of soaring High Atlas peaks. Foreigners are rarely seen in this area, and the hospitality of the villagers seems endless.
Another way to get to the Erdouz, for the more adventurous, involves a few days of trekking over the Atlas. Take a bus from Marrakech to the village of Mzouzit. From there, hike for a few days, up the river valley to the west and over a few mountain passes. Sleep in the terraced fields along the way.
There is no problem with trespassing – the farmers will actually show you the best places to sleep or take you into their homes. One morning when I awoke I was greeted by farmer who had seen me in his field. He came bearing a full pot of tea and some bread for my breakfast.
From the mountains, descend into the Erdouz Valley. There, I met a boy who took me to his house for tea and showed me around the village of Ait Dawd, offering an intimate glimpse into the community. His father invited me to stay with his family overnight. I was back in Marrakech the next day.
The better known destination of Imilchil, to the east of Marrakech is also worthwhile. It requires a long ride by local transport through some fabulous country. From Imilchil, one can continue on down either of the impressive gorges that attract many to central Morocco.
Another marvelous town from which to leap off the beaten path is Tafroute, in the Anti-Atlas range. Tafroute is in one of the most striking settings of any sizable Moroccan town, a palm speckled oasis amidst an intense landscape of red rocks and knife-like mountains.
From here it is possible, mostly by walking and hitchhiking, to loop through the mountains on roads that connect remote villages.
The route takes travelers around the edge of a massive mountain, Jebel Lekst, to the village of Tanalt, where I was met by looks that conveyed the strangeness of the presence of a tourist. Here it is possible to sleep in the luxuriant peacefulness of the extensive gardens, where fully veiled women pass by gathering fruit, and where you shouldn’t be surprised to encounter wild boars face to face.
From Tanalt, the road winds through fields of figs, grapes, blackberries, and almonds to the village of Ait-Iftene. I was greeted by the Sherif (administrative chief) of the area, who invited me to a Berber wedding feast that was to be held that night.
It was an animalistic and celebratory gorging, as huge plates of meat, rice, and couscous were placed on low tables, minus silverware and napkins. The rule was reach in and stuff your face. Men and women remained separate throughout the feast until the dancing began, well after midnight.
From Ait-Iftene you join the main highway at Ida ou Gdnif, where it is easy enough to find transport back to Tafroute or on to the resort town of Agadir.
There are many other places and routes in “the other Morocco” and if you have the time it is worth discovering them as well.
Take a Good Map
In traveling off the beaten path, one must be ready for adventure and the unexpected. Among the list of essentials for a foray into these less traveled regions is a good map. A detailed topographical map of the area you want to explore can prove invaluable.
Topographical maps are not sold in stores. They can only be purchased from the Moroccan Cartography Division building on Ave. Moulay Hassan, in Rabat. Once you have an idea of where you want to travel, the people at the Cartography office will help you select the right map. You then fill out an order form, pay them fifty dirham per map (approximately $5), and are on your way.
It should be noted that if you find yourself in Marrakech it is possible to obtain some maps through the black market (inquire at Hotel Ali), but you will pay twice as much for them and may not be able to get the ones that you want.
The Other Essentials
Other essentials include things that the independent traveler would carry anyway: a sleeping bag, a backpack, decent footwear, warm clothing, and a flashlight.
Some method of water purification is imperative. I simply carried a small amount of bleach, which can be bought anywhere in Morocco, added 3-4 drops per quart of water, and never once became ill. A camping stove is a good idea.
Bring some food from whichever major town you depart, though you will often find yourself invited into a home to share meals with a family. They will inevitably insist that you spend the night with them.
In every village, no matter how remote, there is at least one small store which will carry enough for basic sustenance. If you have trouble finding the store in a given village, and have difficulty communicating with the villagers, just say “Coca-Cola” a few times, and directions will be forthcoming. Bring money.
Another very helpful tool is a working knowledge of French, or better yet, Moroccan Arabic. Few people speak English, but nearly all speak French, until you get into the mountains. There you will be lucky to find someone that speaks something other than Arabic or the Berber tongue.
It is possible to get to most Moroccan villages by local transport, especially if you are willing to do some walking, too. Bus routes crisscross the country, and one can be dropped off at any village along the main roads.
Camiones
Camiones are a common method of transport in many parts of the Moroccan mountains, such as the Imilchil and Tarroudant areas. They are open transport trucks laden with goods and livestock and jammed with people making the mountain market circuit. The camione can be a physically grueling experience, as the roads are rough and comforts absent. But of this hardship a beautiful solidarity forms among the passengers along the way, providing for a unique local experience. Chances are you’ll be the only foreigner on the truck.
Camiones leave from main towns on market days and hurtle their way along the mountain pistes, delivering people to and from their homes. All villages except the most remote are on their routes. Depending on the market schedule, you may have to spend a day or two in a place waiting for the next truck to pass through.
Walking is perhaps the most rewarding way of traversing this land, and provides access to the most remote places. If you intend to leave the network of dirt roads, you should be in good physical condition, have experience with mountain travel, and know how to read your topo map.
While the dangers of remote wilderness is lessened by how populated the mountains are, one should be confident in one’s mountaineering abilities before setting off into the Atlas on foot. It is a demanding range. The information here should be used as a framework for planning such a trip, paired with good judgment, common sense, and a desire to explore.
When visiting this strange foreign land, you need not feel limited to what is on the normal bus routes or in the guide books, for the best of Morocco is not found there. It is to be discovered in the out of the way places in the Atlas Mountains, and in the homes and hearts of the people who live there.
Tips at a Glance
Money
Unit of currency: Dirham
Rate of exchange: approx. 1USD = 9.5 Dirham
ATM’s can be found in all major cities. Commission on traveler’s cheques is charged per cheque, so it is better to carry large denominations.
For those on a budget, it is possible to travel in Morocco for an average of 10 dollars a day, everything included. Haggling is an expected and accepted part of life.
Languages
Moroccan Arabic, French, Berber. One can get around in the cities using English, but it is not always easy. A French dictionary would be helpful.
Dress
Morocco is a Muslim land. While many tourists disregard this, it is both respectful and prudent to wear long pants or long skirts, and shirts that cover your shoulders. This is even more important in small villages.
Depending on the season and the region, Morocco can be incredibly hot or very cold. Prepare accordingly.
Food
There is a variety of cuisine in Morocco for meat eaters and vegetarians alike. The more popular dishes include couscous, tajine, omelettes, soup, and sandwiches.
Water
Drink bottled or treated water only.
Guidebooks
The best guidebooks are either Lonely Planet or Rough Guide.
