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Tanzanian Tantrums
Before I even left the UK things were going wrong. The Kenyan embassy had “lost” my passport, the bank had cancelled my credit card and my traveller’s cheques still hadn’t arrived. As I pushed myself through the throngs of happy Christmas shoppers in London’s Oxfo
Beach? Smeach! (1 of 2)
Backpacking seems to have become deeply unfashionable lately. If the style gurus of the new century are to be believed, those of us with little or no ready cash who still like to travel the globe are nothing more than overfed, over-educated parasites, spending Mummy and Daddy’s money as
Beach? Smeach! (2 of 2)
I stick my head over the counter of the village shop and recoil as about 2,000 wasps fly up at me from the bags of mangos and grain on the floor. The shopkeeper looks astonished. Later I realise he always looks like this, and treats any request as though it is the most outrageous, insane deman
The and the Music (1 of 2)
The radio, wired up to a car battery, crackles into life in the near darkness outside the first house of Kizambani village, where a small crowd has gathered to listen for the moon. Above us the sky is pitch black, with not even a star visible. The new moon, if it puts in an appearance tonigh
The and the Music (2 of 2)
Tonight is the last night of the celebrations and as the children leave, the party turns from school fete to rave. Teenagers and twentysomethings are now bounding wildly around to tunes that become increasingly bombastic. Pushing aside the curtain onto the dance floor proper, the noise hits m
Arusha National Park, Tanzania
This small, 137 square km, park is located an easy 40 minute drive from Arusha and is only 60km from the Kilimanjaro International Airport. The home of Mount Meru, this delightful little park is seldom used by the majority of visitors to Tanzania; being popular only with hikers using Mount M
Climbing Mt. Meru (1 of 2)
"I don’t know if I like this," remarked Neil, my hiking partner. "I’ve never liked exposed heights. I don’t know if I can make it." I sympathized with him. While our surroundings were awe-inspiring, they inspired a lot of fear as well. To our left, the s
Climbing Mt. Meru (2 of 2)
From Saddle hut onwards, the forest was far less dense and lush, as we were above the usual cloud line. Forty minutes of hard climbing brought us to the edge of the tree line, near Rhinoceros Point. This curious name arises from the discovery at this spot – some 3,800 metres above sea
Lions in the Serengeti (1 of 3)
Siblings change their purpose over time. When you’re young, your sisters and brothers are either sources of embarrassment or targets of derision, or competitors in licking the whipped-cream bowl. In adulthood, siblings exist primarily in order to let you freeload vacations in desirable
Ruaha National Park, Tanzania
This isolated and little explored park is Tanzania’s second largest National Park. Infested by the biting Tsetse fly, this huge area of woodland and grassland has remained undisturbed by man and his cattle and has remained virtually unchanged through centuries. The large Ruaha River f
Lake Tanganyika, Tanzania
Lake Tanganyika, known as the Fossil Water Lake, lies along the Western side of Tanzania, bordering Burundi, the Congo and Zambia. Lake Tanganyika fills a deep, 4,700 feet, canyon formed by the Great Rift Valley. Due to its huge length (420 miles), and depth, the lake contains nearly 7,413
No Thanks, I’m Full
No Thanks, I’m Full Tanzania “This is going to be great“, I thought, grinning to myself as I cheerfully chopped up onions, mushrooms and green peppers. What better way to repay our adoptive family’s kindness than with a typical Canadian meal of spaghetti and garlic bre
Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania
Mt. Kilimanjaro is the highest mountain in Africa and the tallest freestanding mountain in the world. Standing at 5,896 metres (19,340 feet), Kilimanjaro rears up out of the surrounding African plains to form a snow-capped challenge to any hiker! Previously thought to be extinct, Kilimanjaro
Karibu Kizimbani
Karibu Kizimbani Tanzania “Shikamoo,” we greeted the old man. His skin was dry, dark and leathery, and he had been watching us with clouded, watery eyes. When he heard us use the Swahili greeting showing respect – shikamoo, I respectfully greet you – his face broke i
Snows of Kilimanjaro – Tanzania
Snows of Kilimanjaro Tanzania I’m back from the Africa, having conquered its tallest peak, survived its beggars and thieves, been ripped off, and spent much more than I wanted to. I can definitely say I had the worst Christmas ever, with altitude sickness, food poisoning, unreliable port
Snows of Kilimanjaro
I’m back from the Africa, having conquered its tallest peak, survived its beggars and thieves, been ripped off, and spent much more than I wanted to. I can definitely say I had the worst Christmas ever, with altitude sickness, food poisoning, unreliable porters, and a 6 day hike in tempe
Strange Places, Abnormal Walks – Tanzania and Mauritius
Strange Places, Abnormal Walks Tanzania and Mauritius About a kilometre south of the Jozani Forest Visitor Centre, the boardwalk begins under the shade of an old tamarind tree. About half-way along the horse-shoe shaped boardwalk, an extension crosses the creek and leads to a rest area. Sit he
Big Brother’s African Brother #24: Nairobi, Kenya to Arusha, Tanzania
Nairobi, Kenya to Arusha, Tanzania Day 23: 20 August 2002 8:30 pm Three truck mates leave in Nairobi and three new truck mates replace them. (US $1 = 970 Tsh) At last, I feel strangely positive this morning even though it is another miserable, grey, drizzly day. At 8:15am, running late as us
Big Brother’s African Brother #26: Serengeti National Park to Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
Serengeti National Park to Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania Day 25: 22 August 2002 9:00 pm The group set off on their early morning safari, enthralled by yesterday’s animal viewing. Up at 5:30am to pop to the long drop, even though Tom was concerned that lions were ready to pounc
Big Brother’s African Brother #25: Arusha to Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
Arusha to Serengeti National Park, Tanzania Day 24: 21 August 2002 7:00 pm The group climb aboard four-wheel drives in restless mood for their optional excursion into the Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Acacia tree, Serengeti First day of our three day
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