Introduction: Wuhu literally means ‘weedy lake’ and as a description of the city it may not be too inaccurate. Located in Anhui province, one of the poorest in China, to most of the world Wuhu is just another anonymous point on the map. It is an unassuming central Chinese city hemmed in at all sides by heavy industry and afflicted by pollution, overpopulation and isolation. But while Wuhu may not be at the top of anyone’s places to visit list, this rural city definitely has something to offer the intrepid traveler. Wuhu is ideal for those seeking the real China, those who want to experience the effect that China’s phenomenal growth has had at ground zero, and those who want to experience the day to day life of the average Chinese citizen. Wuhu is China in all its filthy glory, a stereotypical Chinese city with all the bells and whistles; beggars, chaotic traffic, rubbish strewn streets and footpaths covered in gobs of spittle. Most tourists only visit Wuhu as a stop on the way to the more famous sites in Anhui province, Huang Shan and Jiu Hua Shan (more information on these sites can be found in other travel guides), but Wuhu itself should not be overlooked as a good place to spend a couple of days in China. While it may not have the flashing neon lights of Shanghai or the developed tourist scene of Beijing, Wuhu does give one the chance to partake in the reality of China, and not just a glossed over version of it.
Location: Wuhu is located on the south bank of the Yangtze river (Chang Jiang), and is about 160km west of Nanjing (about 2 hours by bus).
Population: 2 million
Climate: Wuhu has a typical central Chinese climate, with the temperature dropping to around 5 degrees Celsius during winter (late November to early March), and summer reaching highs of above 30 degrees Celsius. There is occasional rain throughout the year, with a few instances of snow in winter, however the most common feature of Wuhu’s weather is a gray smoggy haze of pollution and industrial waste that hangs over the city. Click on the link to check the current weather in Wuhu.
History: Wuhu is first mentioned in 770 BC, but it did not rise to prominence until the Three Kingdoms period, from 220 BC to 65 AD. During this time it became a strategically important town controlled by the Wu Kingdom and was known as Qiuzu. From the 15th century, Wuhu developed as a major river port and commercial centre, taking advantage of its position on the Yangtze river. Under the Ming dynasty Wuhu became famous as an important centre for trading rice.
In 1876 Wuhu became a treaty port, one of the many tracts of land ceded to foreign powers after the Opium wars, which allowed traders from many countries to reside there. A huge, American-built Catholic church dates from this time. Wuhu enjoyed increased trade and prosperity in rice, wood and tea, until the Warlord Era of the 1920s and 1930s, when bandits were active in the area. During the Japanese occupation in the late 30’s and early 40’s, Chinese resistance fighters hid in the lakes around Wuhu, by submerging themselves and breathing through reeds.
As part of the post war industrialization under the communist party, Wuhu expanded in many heavy industries such as the textiles, paper, and automobile manufacture. Despite this, Wuhu has lagged behind the nearby cities of Ma’anshan and Tongling in industrial production, and remains primarily a commercial and collecting center for trade in rice, silk, cotton, tea, wheat and eggs.
Locals: Chinese people are inherently friendly treating guests with respect and often great hospitality. This is especially true when it comes to dining. That said however, Wuhu is a sheltered and isolated city, and a foreigner walking down the street in broad daylight will attract stares, whispers and even shouts of amazement. It also must be remembered that very few people can speak fluent English, and the majority barely know the word ‘hello’, so some knowledge of Mandarin is helpful.
Map of WuhuOrientation: As mentioned above, the city of Wuhu proper is located entirely on the southern bank of the Yangtze river, which runs north to south on the border of the city.
Things to see: The list of things to see and do in Wuhu is larger than you might think, and there are activities to suit many tastes in this city. The best part is that most attractions in Wuhu are incredibly cheap to visit (if there is any fee at all) and very easy to get to, simply flag down a taxi and you’re on your way.
Zhong Shan Road Shopping Street (Zhong Shan Lu, Bu Xing Jie)
This is it, the centre of Wuhu city, and the meeting place of the town’s well to do. Also known as Walking Street, this pedestrian precinct is lined with the most modern and expensive businesses. Located along this street is a McDonald’s and a KFC, as well as Wuhu’s two nightclubs. Whether you’re craving western food,western electronics orwestern clothes, you’ll find it here. Modern China at its finest.
Mirror Lake (Jing Hu)
The serene mirror lake is located in the middle of town and is surrounded by a well-maintained park that is worth a visit. Mirror Lake Park will afford you some glimpses of the China you were dreaming of, with many beautiful views. The calm, still water of the lake is surrounded on all sides by willow trees, ancient Chinese architecture, and hectic markets. However the centre piece of the park is Jiu Zi Square. Nestled between Mirror Lake and Walking Street, this patriotic square is filled with statues, the grandest of which is an impressive 20 metre high bronze pillar depicting Chinese phoenixes, surrounded on all sides by fountains. In the morning the park is packed with elderly people practicing Tai Chi, who will be glad to teach you some kung-fu moves, an amazing experience!
Guang Ji Temple (Guang Ji Si)
This beautiful Buddhist Temple was first built during the Sung Dynasty (960 AD-1279 AD) but has been renovated many times since. The temple grounds are quite large and kept spotlessly clean, and the smell of incense hangs ever present in the air. Guang Ji Temple is even home to a small group of practicing monks. Here you can wander through exquisite shrines, join the myriads of people burning incense and prostrating themselves before Buddha and glimpse the comings and goings of saffron clad monks and nuns. Entrance is 5 yuan.
Shen Shan Park (Shen Shan Gong Yuan)
Next to Guang Ji Temple, this hilly park provides limited respite from the hectic hustle and bustle of modern-day China. Under leafy ginko trees, winding stone paths lead between shrines and pagodas, and parts of the park are quite picturesque and serene. However the main road of this garden is lined with fair ground rides such as roller coasters and merry go rounds. These cost extra and you use them at your own risk. For 10 yuan more you can visit the attached zoo, a depressing display of animal cruelty, but a must see if you enjoy monkeys and deer in large feces-lined concrete enclosures. Entry is to the park free.
Catholic Cathedral (Jiao Tang)
This picturesque Jesuit Church located on Ji He Jie seems out of place in Wuhu, and was built during the city’s time as a treaty port. Situated on the banks of the Yangtze, this well maintained church is well worth a visit, and services are held there regularly. On Christmas the church is especially packed, with Chinese exchanging gifts in celebration of this imported holiday.
Ting Tang Park (Ting Tang Gong Yuan)
On the outskirts of town, this large public park is a great place to wander through tranquil tree-lined lanes, and admire the crystal-clear lake dotted with islands and surround by bridges an towers. Many activities can be enjoyed here, from paddle boat hire and archery, to the renting of prostitutes who will take you to small house boats out on the lake and show you a good time. Many festivals are held here throughout the year. Entry is 2 yuan.
Ma Ren Mountain (Ma Ren Shan)
Ma Ren Mountain will astound with its breathtaking landscape of jagged yellow rocks jutting out at odd angles from the tree canopy. The Buddhist temple at the base of the mountain is also spectacular. This must-see tourist attraction is only an hour’s bus trip out of town, and provides a great insight into rural China.
Olympic Sports Centre
As part of the build-up to the 2008 Beijing Olympics, this modern stadium stands as a testament to the progress of modern China. You will only be able to glimpse this monolith from the outside however, as entry is only allowed during the infrequent pop concerts that are held here.
Eating out: Wuhu cuisine draws heavily from the famed Sichuan school of cooking, and this means its hot…very hot. Sichuan cooking relies on the use of chillies, and a typical meal in Wuhu will always have at least one dish swimming in these little green bundles of joy. The centre of dining in Wuhu is Phoenix Street, a newly built avenue completely dedicated to flashy new Chinese restaurants.
Hotpot: Undoubtedly the best feature of Wuhu cuisine is Hotpot, a town specialty. Eating hotpot is a very communal affair, and the meal begins by boiling a pot of spicy broth at your table. After you have selected many small dishes from the menu, the feast is brought out and you cook it yourself in the pot. This very filling and rewarding dining experience will only cost around 40 yuan per person, and most restaurants offer free beer to boot. There are many hotpot restaurants located on Phoenix Street, and several good establishments can also be found on Jiu Hua Shan Lu.
Dim Sum: One of the most enjoyable ways to partake of food in China is dim sum, a traditional buffet of small dishes. The best dim sum restaurant in Wuhu is undoubtedly Lu He Jie, located next to the Guang Ji Temple. The atmosphere here is excellent, and the buffet only costs 30 yuan per person.
Street food: The cheapest and often the most exciting way to eat in Wuhu is at one of the hundreds of street stalls and restaurants located all over the town. A bowl of delicious fired noodles (mien chao) will only set you back 3 yuan, and 5 yuan will get you a serving of fried dumplings (jiaozi) large enough for two.
Nightlife:
As you can imagine, Wuhu is not brimming with nightlife, but there are a few exceptions. The town’s two nightclubs are situated right next to each other on walking street, 1001 Best Club and Babylon. While Babylon is more an expensive karaoke bar than a nightclub, 1001 Best Club offers a bouncing dance floor and an ‘interesting’ decor of fluro-green plastic skulls. The downside is that both these places close at 1 a.m.
The bar scene in Wuhu is not quite as scarce. One expensive but classy option is City Garden, an indoor/outdoor restaurant and drinking establishment, which serves western food and western alcohol. For the more serious drinkers, two great options are the Doors, a charismatic little bar with a good selection of drinks and occasional live music, and Leon’s Bar, a trippy place to drown your sorrows. Be sure to meet the owner Leon, as a conversation with him will stay with you the rest of you life. Additionally, alcohol may be quaffed at the Overseas Students’ Garden, which is situated next to the west gate of Anhui Normal University. Drinks are a little pricey and the atmosphere a little strained but you will definitely meet some interesting characters here!
Accommodation:
Conch Hotel: 209 Renmin Road, Wuhu, China, 241000 Ph: 0553-3118188
This hotel is the nicest in Wuhu, and it is clean with excellent rooms and decent service. Located only 5 minutes walk from the train station this hotel boasts a Chinese and western restaurant and ticket reservation services. A standard room will set you back around 400 yuan a night.
Tieshan Hotel: No. 3, Gengxing Road, Wuhu, China, 241000 Ph: 0553-3718888
Situated next to Mirror Lake Park, this flashy four star hotel is a little pricey but very conveniently placed, only 3 kilometres from the railway station and about 5-10 minutes walk from walking street. The rooms are clean and the service is as good as you’re going to find in Wuhu. Singles start from 350 yuan a night and doubles around 430 yuan.
Wuhu Guixin Hotel: 17,Pujiang Road, Economic & Technical Development Zone, Wuhu, China Ph: 0553-5844888
Located a little way out of town, this hotel boasts a gym, a sauna, a night club and a hair and beauty salon. There are various sized meeting rooms and a business center that provides telex, cable, facsimile, photocopying and typing services. Double rooms cost 280 yuan a night with breakfast.
Getting There and Away: Traveling in and around China is very easy for even the most inexperienced traveler but a little Mandarin, or at least a phrasebook will come in handy. The most popular destinations out of Wuhu are the scenic mountains of Huang Shan (Yellow Mountain) and Jiu Hua Shan (Nine Glorious Mountains), and bus services run frequently to these locations. The best way to get to either of these mountains is to book a tour through your hotel or a travel agent.
Air: Air travel is a fairly expensive way to travel in China but good if time is an issue. The two nearest domestic airports are located in Hefei and Nanjing, and both are connected to every major city in China. The nearest international Airport is in Shanghai.
Train: Wuhu is quite well connected by train, and traveling by this mode of transport in China is very cheap. You can reach most major cities from Wuhu, and some of the more common destinations include Hefei, Nanjing (2 hours), Shanghai, Hangzhou (6 Hours), Beijing and Xi’an (21 hours).
Bus: Bus is the quickest and cheapest way to travel around to the small towns that surround Wuhu, and is even a viable alternative to train travel if your destination is nearby. Frequent minibuses run to Ma’anshan, Tongling, Nanjing, and Hefei, and all take under 2 hours. There is also a very good air conditioned bus that runs to Shanghai several times a day taking just over 6 hours.
