Hong Kong

Arriving in Hong Kong is like stepping into a whirling mass of humanity world and its dynamism is unforgettable. From the moment you arrive at the futuristic and ultra-efficient Chek Lap Kok airport you begin to realise that Hong Kong is a city which is not only geared to making money and looking stylish, it seems to be going about this with a smile on its face.

Until recently a British colony, and indeed many reminders of these previous days remain (including a number of excellent British style pubs), Hong Kong is definitely proud of its Chinese character. You do not have to scratch the surface deeply to see that the culture beneath the glitz is pure Chinese.

Amongst the ‘must sees’ of Hong Kong is the view from Victoria Peak. The classical picture postcard view which more than anything typifies the exuberance and ambition of the island. The general feeling amongst tourists and locals alike is that if you haven’t been to the peak – then you haven’t been to Hong Kong.

Riding the tram up to the peak certainly has to rank amongst one of the most exhilarating, or scary rides, anywhere in the world. Thankfully, helpful staff are on hand to assure you that since it began service about a century ago, there has never been an accident. Climbing over the massed cameras and tripods of what seems like half the population of Asia to watch the sun set tantalisingly over the bay of glittering glass-clad skyscrapers reveals a Hong Kong which very few people could forget.

If this wasn’t romantic enough to melt even the coldest heart, head off towards Aberdeen Harbour, famous for being home to some 6000 people who live and work on the junks which are moored in the harbour. Recently the number of junks has decreased as people gravitate towards the city centre and abandon the traditional way of life but the harbour is still a hive of activity. Aberdeen harbour is still breathtakingly pretty, especially in the late afternoon sun. For a few dollars you can hire a sampan to tour the harbour and end up at one of the three palace-like floating restaurants which are moored in the harbour to dine on exquisitely prepared seafood and Chinese delights, such as marinated duck tongue.

An escape from the frantic pace of Hong Kong Island can be found on one of the 234 outlying islands, many of which are infrequently visited by tourists and therefore offer a glimpse of a more traditional and less hectic way of life. Lantau, which means broken head in Cantonese, is the largest of the islands (142 sq km), has a population of 30,000, a 933m peak, and a 70km walking trail, but has avoided many of the development excesses of other islands. It is home to several important monasteries, including Po Lin Monastery with its enormous bronze Buddha, the largest in Asia. All of these islands are easily reached by either ferry or high speed catamaran. To really escape the crowds you can even stay on the island’s Trappist monastery.

However, most people are attracted to Hong Kong, for shopping. And in Hong Kong you can certainly shop to excess. Hong Kong is a duty free port and “shop till you drop” is the motto of many visitors to the island. The variety of goods is colossal and if you can’t find it in Hong Kong, then it probably doesn’t exist. There are many bargains to be had on locally manufactured products including clothing, footwear and luggage. Don’t forget to check out the many street markets which are dotted about the island. The prices there are typically about a half of what you would pay in the boutiques, and from the throngs of locals which seem to crowd every stall, it seems that the variety is just as good, if not better.

Although Hong Kong is small and crowded the transport system is comprehensive and widely used. The extensive bus system alone offers a bewildering number of routes around the islands, which cover the main tourist routes as well as some of the less visited attractions. Trams are another option for getting around, and the narrow double decker trams which criss-cross the island represent one of the world’s greatest travel bargains. For a flat fare of HK$1.20 you can travel as far as you want, whether it’s one block or the end of the line. Not only is it a great way of seeing the island, travelling during rush hour (which seems to last from 9am till 5pm) is a great way of meeting local people.

Although it will be interesting to watch the changes now that Hong Kong has been returned to China, it is sure that Hong Kong will continue to attract millions of tourists each year who are drawn to the island’s heady mixture of neon lights, duty free shopping and almost intact Chinese tradition and culture.

About the Author
The author has lived and travelled extensively in both hemispheres. He is co-founder of the “Let’s travel in Chile and Uruguay” society. When not travelling or contributing to numerous travel magazines he can be found in Cambridge, UK. He lists his favourite activites as: writing complaining letters to Air Portugal, drinking copious amounts of alcohol and hanging around airports. He may be contacted via: [email protected]