An Elephant Gone Mad – India, Asia

A few years back, I was at Kanha Tiger Reserve leading a group of bird watchers as a naturalist. Being at Kanya National Park is an enthralling experience, unsurpassed by any for a bird watcher and tiger loving naturalist. So it is for the accompanying tourist who is as enthusiastic about bird watching and sighting the magnificent tiger as I am that I've written this article.

The Incident
In the rarest of cases an incident occurs that dampens the whole trip and takes away the fun of being in such a pristine paradise – the land of the tiger. What promised to be an exciting ecotourism venture for me and my group ended when we reached the gate on a bitter cold winter morning. Our cameras, tripods and binoculars ready, we alighted on the Gypsy and reached the gate. My group was eagerly looking forward to a great tiger safari and bird watching tour.

Years visiting Kanha has turned the old hands at Kanha into familiar faces that reflect excitement and warmth at one glimpse of me – their old friend. However, there was no such excitement this time and the grim countenance goaded my inner instincts to think of the worst. So it was, Patel and old Kanha hand informed me that one of the park's prime elephants had killed two forest guards the night before. My group by now had realized that something was amiss; they were waiting eagerly for me to come to the Gypsy, and inform them of the happening. I knew the day would be lost since the park would remain closed until the elephant was captured.

Kanha offers fantastic bird watching on the periphery. Although disappointed that we could not enter the park, we had a great day watching interesting bird species. The night’s incidence was ringing loud in my ears; we kept to the safety of the forest neighboring the resort. It so happened that the elephant, Shivaji, was in musth when his keeper (mahout) was sent on transfer by an irate officer who could not persuade the poor man to sell him his professional camera that was gifted by a happy tourist.

Elephants in musth are in heightened state of sexual excitement and at times go mad and destructive. Even in this state, they are totally subservient to their keeper. In the absence of his keeper, Shivaji could not keep a check on his state. He was surely missing Sabir, his mahout. Distressed by the Sabir’s absence, Shivaji broke chain that night and wandered near a forest hut where two guards were preparing their meal.

On seeing the huge elephant approach them in musth, the inexperienced guards lost their nerve and created a commotion that furthered enraged the elephant. Elephants run faster than humans do; it took Shivaji no time to reach the hut and crush one of the guards under his foot. The other guard ran helter skelter into the forest shouting for help. This was a terrible mistake. The sound made it easy for the elephant to track and eventually, crush the helpless guard.

What followed was a nerve wrecking, spine tingling drama lasting three terrible nights. The administration had come to heels. There was only one forest ranger, Bisen, who had the courage to locate the elephant in the vast jungle, and tranquilize the beast. Shivaji was back in chains and the park gates were re-opened the following day.

This is not the end, I thought, as we traversed through the jungle on our jeep. There was relief visible point blank on many faces. There were a few exceptions, though. I conducted the safari with grim apprehension, but all went well, including a tiger sighting on the road for us to marvel at. During the excursion, whenever my eyes met with Patel's (accompanying park guide), there was this acknowledgement between us that the chains might not hold – without a word being exchanged.

Sure enough, when we arrived back at the park gate, the expression on the guard's face told us the drama that was re-enacted. Luckily, we were safe and soon reached the confinement of our resort. I felt sad for the group as we were leaving the next day. We had only one trip inside the park, but what was good was that we had sighted a tiger, and had some fun birdwatching on the natural trails adjoining the resort.

Then panic set in. Shivaji had broken the chains again and was roaming enraged inside the park, where vulnerable tourists were spotting the animal. Luckily, by this time, Sabir had been rushed back to Kanha. He located Shivaji that night and quietly made him follow behind like a tame dog. Unbelievable but true. All was quiet after that. Kanha went back to being the best place to see the majestic tiger in wild India.

That night, Sabir hugged the elephant and cried in remorse and anger. Those who witnessed the event said that Shivaji cried too. After some time, when Shivaji’s condition changed, he was re-engaged in ferrying tourists inside the park. He is still a part of the elephant ride in the park, with Sabir on mount.

The tragedy lingers in my mind. A sad story that was the work of a greedy uncaring officer, which resulted in the death of two innocent forest guards.

Kanya National Park ranks among the safest and the best managed park in the world. No tourist has suffered harm here in five decades. It is a destination that is famous the world over. Kanha is the land of the tiger – the most beautiful and majestic creature in the wild.

The author's website is at Tiger Havens of India.