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B.R. Hills, India
It was a long time since we had an outing. I was dying for a change after the deadly work pressure was over. I was pestering Rad (my soul-mate) for a trip. At last he agreed and we were set to go. The place was B.R. (Biligiri Rangaswamy) Hills.
We started from Bangalore to B.R. Hills in a KSRTC bus at 7:30 AM. It was a five hour journey that wasn’t that strenuous. Then we learned that Jungle Lodges, where Rad had booked a tent, was an hour’s drive from B.R. Hills. I was bit angry at Rad for not having the proper information, but he patiently suffered all my fuss. At last, another bus arrived, which was going to Chamarajnagar. We got into it and at last reached the Jungle Lodges at 1:45PM. I was very hungry and the food was ready. Both of us never bothered to check-in to the lodge but had food, which was quite good. Egg curry, potato curry, roti (Indian bread), rice and curds and some more non-vegetarian stuff.
The tents were well equipped. Both of us took some rest in the tent. The Lodge Manager had informed us about the Jeep safari inside the Wildlife Sanctuary at 4:00PM. Rad was looking bit tired, but he agreed to go for the safari.
We were seated in a Jeep with another family with two small boys. The family didn’t seem to know about wildlife. They were singing loudly, scaring all the animals away. But, we could see many spotted deer, herds of wild buffalos, a sloth bear, herds of wild elephants, two pairs of sambar and also some barking deer. There were few wild boars moving around. An amazingly big wild owl made our day. I had not seen such a big spotted owl before. We could see a dancing peacock too. It was a feast for our eyes. We could spot few brightly colored birds, which I do not know the names. We were back to the tents at 6:00PM and a cup of hot coffee and onion pakoras (south Indian snack) were ready at the reception. It was very refreshing and enjoyable. We watched some wildlife documentary in the hall arranged by the Jungle Lodges. Rad slept immediately after finishing the dinner. We were about to get up early for a trek.
Next day morning we started at 6:30AM. This time we were with another couple that came there for their honeymoon. They didn’t bother to speak to us and we weren’t annoyed with them since they didn’t make any noise to chase away the wild creatures. We went around for two hours and could see only colorful birds and butterflies. No sign of big cats. The guide was telling about him sighting an Indian panther. We too had heard of the wildlife at B.R. Hills, so, I thought it must be true. But, disappointed not to see one with our own eyes, we returned back. We had breakfast of bread, toast and omelet, and a cup of hot coffee. Now again we had to wait for a while to visit Biligiri Ranga’s (Vishnu) temple. A couple on their honeymoon was delaying the trip. They were having a bath it seems! I was impatient and started yelling at the manager. The manager was bit scared of me as my father had served Mysore District (to which B.R. Hills belongs) as Commissioner. So, he said, “You guys carry on.”
The temple was very old. People worship the sleeping idol of Lord Vishnu (Biligiri Ranga in local tribal name). The temple was closed though we could rest in the big veranda. We went around to explore. There were a few small shops, which sold some material for worship like coconut, banana, and betel leaves etc. Ahead of that we could see the valley covered with green. It was awesome. The cool wind was driving me crazy. By that time somebody gave a cry that the temple is open. We saw the pooja and started back towards the lodge. On the way back, there was a shop selling the goods manufactured by ‘Soliga’ tribe. It was full of honey bottles, candles made of wax gathered from beehives, dried and salted gooseberry, some bamboo articles. Rad bought a honey bottle and I took some gooseberry stuff. It was tasty!
In the afternoon at 4:00PM, we took an Elephant safari. It was great! But, in the middle of the forest it started raining! We hadn’t taken raincoat! It was really not that enjoyable. Rad was not talking. He was looking for some tiger in that rain!! It was a two hour safari in the rain.
I was badly in need of hot coffee. But, today we were bit late and onion pakoras were over and coffee was cold. I was so disappointed and as usual pestering Rad for nothing. At last Rad couldn’t stand anymore, he gave me an angry look and told me shut up. It was chilling and I was hungry too. Rad was telling me not to crib about it and talk to the others instead. Others looked very engaged in their own world and why not? Most of them were on their honeymoon. Rad was speaking to the manager about something very seriously, which I didn’t want to know. I was angry with him. Then we had dinner and before sleeping Rad told me that we are going trekking in deep jungles. I was so excited and I was telling him that we could see tiger, panther and also a black panther! He smiled and told me to sleep so that we can start early in the morning.
It was great at 5:00AM in the forest. The group was only Rad and I with a forest guard and a guide from Jungle Lodges. He carried some sandwiches and eggs for us for breakfast. The forest guard was carrying a big knife to clear the way for us and four small ‘country bombs’ (crackers) to chase away the elephants. Rad carried an umbrella this time.
It was a great walk, other than our whispering we could only hear insects. I was telling the forest guard that I want to photograph a panther. As we were walking we approached a very huge rock. We thought we would walk around it instead of over it. It was the difficult way. Once we were on the other side it was flat ground. We walked ahead a few feet. Suddenly, I heard a growl, which shook the whole forest just few feet behind us. All four of us turned back at once. I went cold to see what was that. On that huge rock was standing a TIGER!!! Could be just 20 feet away from us! Big, healthy and (could be) hungry too! I remembered my parents, my sisters, my brother, and nieces and nephew. I wanted to hug Rad for the last time. I was thinking it is my last morning of life!! I was the slowest among all four! I held Rad’s hand very tightly. He responded. To my horror the big cat jumped towards us! It was too much for my heart to bear. Forest guard told us not to spread away. I stood motionlessly very close to Rad. Somebody had told me that if we don’t move the tiger will not attack. The big cat showed some mercy on my pounding heart and moved away. It was like a moment of the life! Ooooohhhhh!
Then I was walking very fast!! Rad was laughing inside, looking at me. But, I never got angry. We reached a place, which was bit rocky, but we could sit comfortably to have our breakfast. I was scared to sit. Then the forest guard started talking very casually to ease our tension. He told many stories out of his experience.
I had a question for Rad. I asked him, “Rad, if the tiger had attacked us what would you do?” He replied, “I was worried about you. And also about me. I didn’t know what to do for I couldn’t run leaving you alone and couldn’t take you along.” We started back towards the lodge from there. We saw herds of elephants on the way.
The whole day I was dazed and wondering “Did I see a tiger for real?” Ahhhh! Next day after breakfast we started back to Bangalore. It was a memorable trip.