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The Strange Motel Mosque – Paharaganj, Delhi The Strange Motel Mosque Paharaganj, Delhi After sweeping through the packed streets of Paharaganj, Delhi, past Bangladeshi beggars and pushy shopkeepers, I craved the relief of my hotel room, with its peeling paint and dirty black and white floors. I was working on erasing some dark circles u
Bombay & Mumbai; A Tale of Two Cities Bombay & Mumbai; A Tale of Two Cities Bombay and Mumbai, India Bombay begins with a pre-dawn road-trip through streets carpeted with sleeping people. Our yellow and black taxi barrels along in the fast lane, horn blaring as we progress in a succession of rapid braking and momentum-gatherin
India on Three Wheels – India India on Three Wheels India It had just topped 45ï¿½C, the sun was blazing high above us in a clear blue sky and a hot wind was blowing across the cracked dry plain, drying out my eyeballs so I could barely see the potholes in the road as I drove. My kidneys felt bruised from the constant pound
Prayas – India Prayas India After four rottenly humid, dirty, exhausting days in Delhi, I tossed my towel of compassion in the toilet – or side of the road, as is commonly used there. The barefoot, half-clothed children who wandered up to me with one hand on my arm and the other curled toward their mou
What to Wear in Northern India What to Wear in Northern India India I was traveling with the aid of a Lonely Planet guidebook on a recent trip to northern India (Spring 2004) and began to notice that the text was lacking some important information that would be useful to everyone. As I traveled through the many diverse cultu
Forever Chennai! – Chennai, India Forever Chennai! Chennai, India Home is where the heart is? Well, yes: there will always be a part of Liverpool inside me, yet the heart is a wholesome thing; it can hold so much within. My roots are firmly planted in English soil, but are obviously no longer exclusive to England. My affair wit
Spaced Out! – Chennai, India Spaced Out! Chennai, India “So, like a bull, my feet are sunk in the soil, laden under a yoke?” Freedom laughed at my self-assessment. She was a twenty seven year old from Sweden who was extolling the virtues of astrology. Freedom had suspected that I was an earth sign by my inabili
Poison Kiss – Chennai, India Poison Kiss Chennai, India “I would like you to be the main actor in a film I am making, sir”. Everyone in the room turned to see who said this. A few seconds later they began looking in my direction and I almost choked on my coffee. This booming voice from half way across the room
The Point of No Return: Love and Death in India – Delhi, India The Point of No Return: Love and Death in India Delhi, India I suppose that men cannot really describe other men as being “sweet”. Someone I once knew in India, a woman, liked to call certain men sweet, but I never felt that I could. But Sach was sweet. He had a gentle nature, a par
Journey With a Difference – Kolkata, West Bengal, India Journey With a Differencee Kolkata, West Bengal, India Once upon a time, there used to be a Party with a difference. There also existed a Team with a difference. Both felt themselves to be invincible. Both were like balloons blown out of proportions waiting for catastrophe to strike. Alas, tod
Chasing Rainbows in Chennai – Chennai, India Chasing Rainbows in Chennai Chennai, India I had been watching satellite TV in my hotel room for far too long. The more I watched, the wearier I became. The advertisements were almost carbon copies of the ones in the West, in terms of the products and the shiny coca-cola lifestyles they promote
From Copenhagen to Byron Bay: An Energy Crisis and a Tale of Two Women – Chennai, India From Copenhagen to Byron Bay: An Energy Crisis and a Tale of Two Women Chennai, India “They possess mystical energies and can help to focus your karma”, April was convinced that the crystals and gemstones I had bought here in India had qualities that went way above and beyond the la
Chai! Chai! Chai! – India Chai! Chai! Chai! India “Chai! Chai! Chai!” came the strangled wail that jolted me from my early morning slumber. It sounded like the painful cry of a scalded cat, but it wasn’t. It could be only one thing – swarms of Indian Railways chai-sellers, laden with pots and urn
Dysentery in Delhi, Chills in Chennai: don’t ask how I am! – Chennai, India Dysentery in Delhi, Chills in Chennai: don’t ask how I am! Chennai, India Metal beaters from the street below were pounding away with huge hammers, tailors were busy at their sewing machines with sharpened needles, and barbers were scraping faces with cut-throat razors. I couldn’t g
Thank God for Sanjay Dutt! – Tamil Nadu, India Thank God for Sanjay Dutt! Tamil Nadu, India This is a story about television and fame and begins in the unlikely setting of a humble eatery in South India. I was famished and stopped at the first street-side cafe or dhaba that I came across. It looked cheap and grotty, and it was cheap and gro
Flying High in India – India Flying High in India India Unfortunately, for most people, air travel has become a necessary part of the travel experience these days. I say “unfortunately” because flying fills me with dread; or, to be more precise, the fear of crashing. Flying in itself is a fabulous experience. W
Sweeties of India – India Sweeties of India India In spite of consumerism having a field day, in spite of DINK philosophy ruling the roost and in spite of Yuppie culture having spread its tentacles far and wide, it is a sorry state of affairs that sweetmeat vendors are left stranded high and dry. They are facing a real
Cardboard Cows and Sugarpuffs: A Taxi Ride to Fame – Chennai, India Cardboard Cows and Sugarpuffs: A Taxi Ride to Fame Chennai, India Travelling through town in a rusting metal box of a taxi in hot pursuit of another gym. No suspension, tattered and torn interior and head wedged against the roof. Every bump and twist magnified from the neck down. Side to side,
Out of Chennai and Into Madness on the Back of an Enfield – Chennai, India Out of Chennai and Into Madness on the Back of an Enfield Chennai, India Steven had two passions in life – motorbikes and rum. Fortunately, he did not really mix the two. He always carried a metal hip flask, which was topped up with Old Monk Indian rum from the bottle shop on Triplicane H
The Art of Evasion on an Indian Train – India The Art of Evasion on an Indian Train India It was yet another long-haul train journey. I was heading south from Calcutta and can remember passing the time (and there was a lot of it) by talking to Ramesh. He was a neatly dressed, thirty-something government employee. Like a lot of private conv

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