“Golly, it would really hurt to fall off that,” was Jamal’s summary of the Tojimbo Cliffs in Fukui Prefecture. You couldn’t contest his logic, as I held my 6-year-old with a firmer grip than usual. We weren’t close to the edge, but the waves crashing far below were enough to stir my maternal instincts. You don’t often get to enjoy the sheer power of nature like that, I thought, looking at the dark rocks shaped into tall columns by the waves, wind, and rain over the millennia.
Tojimbo Cliffs from Walkway
Actually, the fall would do much more than hurt, I knew. The sad part of this glorious view was something my husband LaDante and I had decided not to share with Jamal: this was a favorite spot for suicides. Even the name, Tojimbo, was supposedly the name of a Buddhist priest who was thrown off the edge for his misconduct, or so the legend goes. The legend further adds that his ghost, and many others, are known to haunt the place.
However, there were no signs of ghosts on that sunny Thursday afternoon. Instead, we enjoyed the view of the Sea of Japan and islands in the distance. The Tojimbo Cliffs were not the easiest to reach by public transportation, but we made the travel part of the fun, and Jamal loved the trains and busses and stations.
LaDante just stood and drank in the view for minutes, then pulled out his camera and started taking photos while Jamal and I enjoyed licking ice cream cones from the observation tower. I know his first wife made fun of the hobby, but LaDante’s excellent sense had developed to where his freelancing paid for part of our travels these days.
Tojimbo Cliffs Area from Tour Boat
Which is why we were now in a remote prefecture in Japan that none of my friends had ever heard of. Actually, the other reason we were there was Jamal’s passion for dinosaurs, which would be the focus of our trip tomorrow.
Tojimbo Cliffs Area Information and Shopping
Finally we had our fill of the rugged landscape and found the bus for Awara Onsen. To be honest, we probably could have packed everything into a day trip, but we love soaking in hot springs, and the ones at Awara Onsen were famous for their healing powers, which seemed like a good reason to visit. There turned out to be not much else in the town except the hotels with baths, but that was enough for us, since we were only there for the evening and planned to leave early the next morning.
Matsuya Sensen Hotel
We stayed at the Matsuya Sensen Hotel, まつや千千, which was a good value considering how extravagant it felt. I am used to places with one bath, but this had multiple ones indoors and out, and it was a treat to move from one to the other. I have to admit that I soaked before dinner, then went back just before bedtime. Even the changing room was more like a spa, with wicker chairs and areas for lounging with views of the garden. Apparently the men’s spa was also lovely, but Jamal made rather a scene splashing in the outdoor one and was reprimanded by another patron, though it seems like mostly it was in good humor.
Matsuya Sensen Room and Bath
The meal was fantastic, with the highlight of the multiple little plates being the regional specialty, “echizen” crab. It was so light and flaky and seemed to melt in your mouth. The other courses were also good, from the pickles to the steamed savory pudding, but the crab outshone them all.
Matsuya Sensen Dinner Oishi
Our room had tatami floors and thick futons, plus an alcove with chairs and a table and also a small bathroom. LaDante spent the evening sorting and editing his photos while Jamal and I played with his dinosaur flash cards. It was a relaxing evening, which is sometimes just what you need when traveling for days on end!
