For me, Christmas means snow. And snow means skiing. Not just quiet runs down gentle slopes, I am an adrenaline junkie and want a good challenge. This year I was worried about my annual vacation because I now have a girlfriend with a three-year old. Not that I don’t love the two of them, but I was afraid that I would have to give up the thrills, especially since I knew she had her heart set on a trip overseas. Probably she was envisioning the French Riviera, but she readily agreed on a trip to Japan when I explained that Mt. Niseko Annupuri supposedly has some of the best snow in the world.
We had only taken weekend trips by car before, so it was rather overwhelming to plan a week-long trip to Hokkaido via Tokyo, but we took our time reading up on options and fortunately everything went smoothly. After a grueling day of travel, flying into New Chitose Airport and then taking the Chuo Bus Company’s Niseko Bus , the three of us were finally settled in our comfortable and stylish room at the Green Leaf Hotel in Niseko Village. I chose Niseko Village because it has the hardest ski runs with greatest variation in terrain; my girlfriend chose the Green Leaf because it was full of beautiful artwork.
Green Leaf Niseko Village mountain backdrop
In the morning, we awoke to a stunning view of snowy trees and blue sky. I was itching to hit the slopes, and the air was brisk and cold when we went outside. The baby doesn’t ski yet, so my girlfriend said she would spend the day with the baby getting used to a new place before putting him in child care. I left the two of them digging holes in a bank of snow and headed off to the rental shop. I was happy to find good quality equipment, and even more excited that the websites were not exaggerating, the runs were varied and exhilarating. The gondola was right next to the Hilton hotel so it was sort of cool the boarding area. We met up for lunch and separated again in the afternoon.
Ski rentals at Niseko
By evening, I was completely exhausted, but also felt so alive and refreshed by the beauty of the mountain and the speed of the skiing. I was worried that my girlfriend and her son would be bored, but the two of them were happily playing in the room and confessed to having taken a long soak in the onsen. They recommended that I go try it out, and so I did. The hot water washed away the aches and left me drowsy and happy. We ate snacks in the room and drank a bottle of wine that night.
Green Leaf Niseko Village dining
The following days fell into a comfortable pattern. We would sometimes do activities together, sometimes apart. The child care program was excellent and the little baby did not want to leave; he spent hours babbling about the things they did together. My girlfriend and I did some skiing and even took a snowshoe hike. We had delicious meals, trying out different restaurants. We took the free shuttle to the other resorts on the mountain and my girlfriend rode the lifts up and down with the baby while I skied.
Niseko Skiing – best in country
Some days we would relax in our room, watching the snow gently fall outside the window. But one of the biggest highlights for the three of us together was a ride on a sleigh pulled by a real reindeer. We all turned into children for that, and took dozens of photos. It was surprisingly fast dashing through the woods. In the evenings, we relaxed in the hot spring baths and curled up together in the room.
Niseko Village Gondola next to Hilton
A personal highlight was one which I unfortunately could not share with the other two. I registered for a special trip through Mizuno no Sawa. It is a part of the resort designated an “Avalanche Control Operation Area.” That means that it is too dangerous to go alone, and there are people using it to learn more about avalanches. Anyhow, a small group of visitors attended a lecture and special ski course, and then we were allowed to go down it, led by a ski patrol. The guy was grim and serious; he looked like he would have preferred not to have visitors in the section at all. When I saw what we were about to ski down, my heart skipped a beat. It was definitely the hardest course I have ever tackled, and I would not have made it without the guide. But that rough terrain with breathtaking drops will remain in my memories as one of the most exciting ski trips ever.
Niseko Skiing – choices choices choices
Christmas itself was a quiet celebration. We had brought a few gifts for the baby, so he was really thrilled that Santa knew where to find him in Japan. Niseko Village arranged with their seasonal events to make sure Santa made a cameo in the lounge on Christmas Eve with a few small trinkets for the kids, and parents all enjoyed a cup of egg nog on the house. The special dinner was worth the hype, and we lingered in the restaurant over coffee until well into the evening. The baby had his first hot chocolate and was hooked, so it was easy to keep him content.
Niseko Village beautiful dayjpg
The week was too short. Before we left, I had worried what a vacation would be like with my girlfriend and her baby. But by the end of the trip I was thinking differently. I was wondering what life would be like without them. We had a magical, wonderful time in Niseko Village. I don’t know if we will ever go back, but I do know that we will have many more vacations as a family in the future.
