Nov 7 Fujiya Hotel & Hakone Venetian Glass Museum
Technically, the whole trip to Japan was our honeymoon, but this section was our extra-special romantic getaway. Paul and I referred to staying at the Fujiya Hotel as a honeymoon within our honeymoon. We had wanted to stay in the Japanese rooms of the Kikka-so in annex, but the former Imperial Villa was completely booked for the duration of our trip, so we settled on the Rose Suite in the Flower Palace. Even the name sounded romantic!
We checked out of the Mitsui Garden Hotel in the morning. We had debated about our luggage, and ended up stowing most of it in a locker at Tokyo Station. We took only the things we needed for the overnight trip in a small bag. Then we caught the shinkansen for our visit to Hakone.
Shinkansen interior (photo: yisris/flickr)
It was fun to ride the bullet train after hearing so much about it. It was slick and modern, with surprisingly spacious seats. It did not seem to be moving that fast unless you looked at things very close to the train, which whipped past with startling speed and gave me a sense of vertigo. During the trip, a perky lady in a uniform pushed a cart of snacks and drinks along the aisle.
Shinkansen food cart (photo: culturalelite/flickr)
We chuckled when she bowed and thanked the passengers upon entering and leaving. A surprising number of Japanese people were buying items from the cart, and we realized that the prices were competitive and not horrendously raised for a captive audience. So Paul stopped her and managed to convey that he wanted one of the boxes of Pocky candy. We nibbled on those for the remainder of the ride, which was just over a half hour.
Lake Ashi in Hakone fall colours (photo: Guilhem Vellut)
We transferred to the Hakone Tozan Bus which took us to Lake Ashi, which was picture postcard perfect. The fall foliage made the trees look like they were on fire as they reflected in the water. And we were thrilled that the weather cooperated and the elusive Mt. Fuji was standing in the background, watching over the scene like a sentinel.
Lake Ashi in Hakone fall colours and Mt. Fuji (photo: hslo/flickr)
We had wanted to take a boat ride, and were surprised to find that the cruise ships were shaped like pirate galleons! That almost turned us off, but we decided to ride anyhow, and were lucky enough to make it to the top deck where we had a great view and could enjoy the breeze off the water. The trip was pleasant, with views of the lake, a red torii gate in the water, and of course the mountain. We drank in the scenery and were sad that the trip was so short.
Lake Ashi in Hakone fall colours with Pirate Ship (photo: Roy Chan/flickr)
Probably we could have planned a course with less bus rides, but we were very interested in seeing a museum which was a bit off the beaten track, the Hakone Venetian Glass Museum. Not that we were particularly drawn to glass, but because the garden had been highly recommended to us. We were not disappointed, either. The museum itself was lovely enough, with a wide variety of old and new pieces to look at, all well displayed in a building that looked like it was plucked straight out of Italy and dropped there.
Hakone Venetian Glass Museum glass waterfall (photo: Sanctu/flickr)
At that point we were quite hungry, so stopped for lunch at La Terrazza, which was a lovely restaurant with a view of the garden. It was tantalizing to see it from afar, and we looked forward to exploring it in detail after our meal. Crystal trees glittered in the sunshine, beckoning us to enter and follow the path around the lake. We did not have high expectations for a restaurant attached to a museum, but there we were extremely mistaken. We ordered different pasta dishes, and they were absolutely delicious, with fresh ingredients and subtle flavoring.
Hakone Venetian Glass Museum glass (photo: detsugu/flickr)
While eating, an Italian man entered with a flourish and started a live performance of classical ballads. It felt like we had walked into a movie set, sitting at the table draped in white linen and listening to the love songs. We rounded out our meal with chiffon cake, which came with fruit and ice cream, and sipped coffee until the performance was over.
Hakone Venetian Glass Museum glass gardens (photo: detsugu/flickr)
Well sated, we finally entered to the garden. It was even more magical from up close than from our window view. The glass sculptures balanced artfully with the landscaping, causing Paul to exclaim in delight at almost every step. We spent a lot longer there than most visitors because of his professional interest; I could see him planning additions to a project he was just starting for a client at home. I, meanwhile, took childish delight in spending time in a place more fitting for elves and fairies than people.
Hakone Venetian Glass Museum gift shop (photo: Sanctu/flickr)
We decided against taking one of the glassmaking classes, instead settling on a few souvenir postcards from the gift shop. Then we returned to the bus stop and headed back toward the Hakone Yumoto Station. It was time to check in to the Fujiya Hotel.
Hakone-Yumoto Station (Photo credit: Ian YVR)
The Fujiya Hotel looked like it belonged in another place or time. The massive white main building was somewhat Japanese, somewhat European. Inside was a grand hallway and lots of dark wood paneling. We checked in and were shown to the Flower Palace, where each room was named after a flower. Ours was the Rose Suite, luxurious by any standards. The chandeliers and wood paneling would have been at home in a British manor house. Neither of us have ever been in a place so posh, and laughed in delight as we explored the room and all the amenities. After resting in our suite, we went out to explore the grounds.
Fujiya Hotel in Hakone Flower Palace (photo: Travis King/flickr)
The Fujiya has several buildings and restaurants, shops and beauty parlors. We poked our noses into all of them. As usual for us, the biggest draw was the gardens and greenhouse, which we were allowed to enter. There were banks of tropical plants in the sultry room. It was a riot of color glowing in the glass windows. Paul’s notebook was in is hand, jotting down new varieties. I never thought of visiting a greenhouse as part of my stay in a hotel, but it seemed a natural extension of all the amenities of the resort.
Fujiya Hotel in Hakone Garden Watermill (photo: nightchrome/flickr)
Dinner was a luxurious course meal at the Fujiya Restaurant. The dark wood paneling, coffered ceiling, narrow windows, and Art Deco light fixtures looked like we had stepped into another movie set. The meal was delicious, mostly French with a Japanese flair which we savored slowly with a bottle of wine.
Fujiya Hotel in Hakone Old Poster (photo: shoma/flickr)
We ended our day with a trip to the hot springs baths. Paul and I had to bathe in different ones because they are segregated by gender, so we arranged to meet back in our room when we had finished. The water was almost painfully hot, but by the time I had gotten out, I felt so relaxed in both mind and body. I wish there were baths like that back home!
Fujiya Hotel in Hakone view (photo: Kristjanath/flickr)
Back in our rose-adorned suite, we both agreed that the Fujiya Hotel was a great choice for our honeymoon. And maybe someday, we can come back for an anniversary celebration.
