Breakfast buffet at Kyoto Dai-Ni Tower
We decided to start with a leisurely breakfast at the hotel buffet at Kyoto Tower Hotel Dai-Ni, so we headed downstairs. The buffet was generous, but a bit unusual to us. There were warming trays of things we never associate with breakfast, and some things we did not recognize at all. Japanese breakfasts tend to be rice, miso soup, grilled fish, and pickles, and this buffet reflected the local tastes.
KyotoTower Hotel Dai-Ni Buffet
There were also eggs that we thought were hard-boiled, but to our surprise were raw, and we noticed that other diners were putting them on rice and slurping up the mix. We filled up on more familiar scrambled eggs, rolls, and fruit, though did try an assortment of other things. We all liked the grilled salmon and some sour, pink preserved plums. We have no idea what the dark brown, somewhat sweet, somewhat salty stuff was. Maybe a type of seaweed?
Red lanterns, red torii – Fushimi Inari
After breakfast our first stop was Fushimi Inari Taisha. It was easy enough to walk to Kyoto Station and catch the train to Fushimi, and we were able to use our JR Pass. The ride was only about 5 minutes, and it was clear which direction to go once we arrived at Inari Station. There was a lane with shops leading up to the big torii gate at the entrance to the shrine.
Fushimi Inari Taisha
The shrine itself was free to enter, a surprise after paying admission to all the places yesterday. We heard it is because Fushimi is the head shrine for the god of rice and business, Inari. So many people and companies donate money that they do not need to collect entrance fees. Even the imperial family visits this shrine!
The grounds were spread out and open, so we wandered around looking at things. The main building was all colored lacquer and gold, with people inside praying. There was a stage and a building where you could buy protective amulets. But the best part was behind this area, up into the hills.
Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine, Kyoto
We had seen photos and heard about it, so really wanted to visit. We left Emi’s stroller in a locker at Kyoto Station because we didn’t want to deal with the stairs, and were glad we did. There was a maze of trails leading up, and all of them had uneven stairs. We almost turned back, but the place was so beautiful with thousands of red torii gates forming tunnels just asking to be explored. The deep green forest around it made rich color contrasts and the place seemed to vibrate with life and magic.
There was a main path, but also side paths which led to little shrines flanked by stone statues of foxes. The girls scampered back and forth, looking at everything and squealing over the statues, butterflies, and other things they found. Some of the gates were old and rotting, some looked like they had been placed yesterday. Insects buzzed in the background and the air was hot and still. We took dozens of photos.
Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine, Kyoto
We made it to a little lake with a shrine on one side that was black with soot and belching plumes of smoke. It reeked of incense. It was rather ominous, more so because we had no idea what it was. The rest of the lake was lovely, though, and we sat on a bench and rested, drinking some water that we had brought and watching a white egret hunting in the water.
We decided to turn back rather than push on to the top, though someday I would like to come back and go the whole way there. Fushimi Inari Taisha was very much like the pictures, but more beautiful and mysterious than we had expected.
kitsune udon
At the bottom we stopped at an udon shop near the station for lunch. The specialty was noodles in a broth served with a sweetened, deep-fried tofu that was very delicious, and not just because we had spent the morning hiking. The meal is called kitsune udon, or “fox noodles,” because foxes are supposed to love the tofu, too.
Foxes are the messengers of the god Inari, and there were plenty of them around. Not only were there statues at the shrine, but there were pastries with bean filling shaped like foxes, fox keychains, ceramic foxes, foxes in all different materials, shapes, and sizes. We got a little stuffed fox as a souvenir to take with us.
Soon we were back at Kyoto Station, where we retrieved the stroller and took another train to Osaka. In Osaka, we transfered to the Chuo Line of the subway. The JR Pass is not valid on the city transport, but at least we were able to use it to get to Osaka itself! At the Osaka Station, we got off and headed for the Kaiyukan.
Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan
The Kaiyukan, or Osaka Aquarium, is located on reclaimed land in Osaka Harbor. The area was modern and open, very different from the dark forests of Fushimi. There was a brisk wind off the bay, making it feel pleasant despite the heat. The Kaiyukan itself was easy to find, a big building covered with a brightly-colored mosaic.
Inside, most of the displays were what you would expect of a world-class aquarium, but they were arranged beautifully and it was interesting to see the progression. We started in a glass-roofed room that was designed like the Japanese forest, with trees and underbrush, running streams and ponds. There was a path winding through, making the small space seem much larger and giving different vistas while we walked. The animals were fun, not just fish, but some mammals like otters, too.
Turtle @ Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan
Then the path spiraled down past many other displays. The girls loved the penguins and sea lions, but there were many interesting animals and fish to look at. The corridor was dark, highlighting the exhibits, but the path was wide and smooth so we could use the stroller. Emi was glad about that after walking all morning, though she did get out and push to the front when the crowd was dense and she wanted a better view.
Whale Shark @Turtle @ Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan
The spiral hall worked downward, and then opened up onto a huge tank in the center. This was the core of the aquarium, with a curiously-shaped sunfish near the top. Below that was an army of fish swimming lazily about. It was hypnotic watching the manta rays. I really liked the smaller rays with polka dots on them, too. There was a whale shark, one of the few in captivity in the world, but none of us were quite as impressed with that.
The corridor spiraled around this center tank, and it was hard to move on to the next section because we enjoyed watching everything. However, the next area was also interesting with its exhibit representing life on the sea floor. There were some amazing lobsters and other creatures.
jellyfish @Turtle @ Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan
Finally we saw the jellyfish room. Walls with thin tanks and artful lighting housed the slowly pulsing creatures. They were stunningly beautiful and looked alien. Each case had different species, some round and small, some with long tentacles. They were all fascinating.
We really enjoyed the exhibits and none of us quite felt ready to leave, so we went to the gift shop. There was the usual assortment of memorabilia, but also some educational toys and books. It was fun to look at everything, though we did end up leaving with some sea life stickers and a book with beautiful photos from the Kaiyukan.
Jellyfish descriptions
Outside of the Kaiyukan is an area of shops and restaurants. We were not really hungry, but stopped for cold drinks at a cafe while watching the giant Ferris wheel which was our next stop.
The Tempozan Ferris Wheel towered over us. We heard it was the largest in Japan and were able to believe it when looking up at it. There was not much of a wait to get on since it was in the middle of the week, and our family got a car to ourselves, though it clearly seated more. The ride lasted almost 20 minutes, slow and pleasant. We had fantastic views of Osaka Bay and Osaka itself. There were hazy mountains in the distance. It was fun to look at all the little boats in the water and the tiny people below us.
Tempozan shopping mall
After the ride, we returned to Osakako Station and caught the subway. We transfered to the train and finally were back in Kyoto. All of us were tired and did not want to walk too far, but we also were hungry and thinking about dinner. So we decided to check out Porta, the mall in front of the station.
View from the Tempozan ferris wheel
To be technical, the entrance was in front of the station, but Porta itself was underground, in the area beneath the bus terminal. The climate-controlled interior was refreshing after the humidity outside, so we were immediately happier about looking around. There were boutiques and clothing stores, plus some very nice Kyoto souvenirs.
The part we were most interested in was the food court. We walked up and down the hall, comparing the plastic food in the window displays before settling on a restaurant. It was hard to decide because everything looked good to us! We decided for a full meal rather than desserts or pastries, but that still left many choices. Not the Italian, though there was a long line waiting to get in. We had had udon for lunch, and didn’t want the eel.
okonomiyaki
We settled on okonomiyaki. The omelet-like dishes were prepared by chefs behind a window. The hearty food was the perfect choice, very filling but not greasy. There was a lot of cabbage and vegetables mixed in and the tops were decorated with mayonnaise and a dark sauce that tasted a bit like soy sauce.
After eating, we walked back to the Kyoto Tower Hotel Dai-Ni. It was another long but fun day!
