Busker + fan @ Shinjuku Station
All of us were excited about the idea of riding the bullet train to Kyoto, so we packed up our luggage, checked out of the hotel, and had a leisurely breakfast at a small coffee shop. When rush hour was over, we headed into Shinjuku Station. Day 3 of 10 day Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto trip was a go!
Before coming to Japan we bought a JR Pass, which allows for unlimited travel on JR trains for the duration. Because they are expensive, we decided to pick up a one-week one for the time we are going back and forth to Kyoto and Osaka. The trip to Ghibli Museum yesterday did not warrant buying one for two weeks.
We got a voucher from the travel agent when we paid for the pass, and in Japan needed to get the real thing. We were told it was possible to do so at the Information Desk here, so we searched it out. A grim employee listened to what we wanted, then without speaking handed us more papers to fill out. He looked them over and took them, along with the vouchers and our passports into a back room.
Just to diverge from the trip a bit, fashion in Tokyo is amazing. Other than the salary men who wear dark suits for work, you will see every sort of fashion in Tokyo. We noticed that the farther we got from central Tokyo the more routine it got but everyone looked perfect in their own style in Tokyo. Perfectly coiffured women and men in tailored clothes. Made us feel a bit boring and here I was obsessing when packing for the trip that Banana Republic may be to polished of a look! Little did I know!
Hair fashion?
It was taking so long that we wondered if there was something wrong. He came back and asked tersely, “From today?” and we said yes. He retreated back into the room. Finally he came out and handed us the JR Passes and our passports, saying nothing else, and went back to his own business.
We thanked him and went to board the train for Tokyo Station. We had no idea how to use the passes, because yesterday we bought tickets and went through the gates to the train. Next to every section of gates is a window with an attendant, so we decided to go there. The person saw our passes and waved us through. We subsequently found out that this is the way to use the pass on regular trains that require no reserved seating. Just show the pass at the window and enter.
POKEMON Shinkansen
Tokyo Station was a maze. At first we didn’t know where to go, but a helpful person pointed out the signs hanging from the ceiling that had the shinkansen bullet train logo. This time when we showed the passes, we were referred to the ticket counter, because the shinkansen has reserved seating. The trains run every 20 minutes or so, so even though the first two were full, we could take the following one and it was no problem.
Bento
While waiting for our train, we looked at the stalls with sundry goods and boxed lunches, called bento in Japanese. These meals were not like what you would expect for station food, they looked delicious! People were buying them up and heading for the platforms, so we decided to do the same. It was a bit bulky with the luggage, but Emma volunteered to carry them if we would include some chocolate for after our lunch.
Shinkansen
It was exciting getting to the platform and seeing the shinkansen for the first time. Of course, we have seen countless photos and videos, but watching the sleek train slide up to the platform and stop so that the doors were lined up accurately with the spaces designated to wait was impressive. We got on board and found our seats. We were hardly sitting down when the train started moving. It was so smooth that we hardly noticed at first, but gradually the train gained speed. There were was another stop in Tokyo, then Yokohama, then the train was flying through the countryside.
Lushness of Japan
The view was wonderful, green rice and tea fields, glimpses of ocean, rolling hills and little houses. There were a lot of tunnels that seemed to jump out of nowhere with a whooshing noise and darkness. Every now and then we could spot the roof of a temple or the red gate of a shrine.
During the ride, people started to pull out their bento, so we followed suit. We were wondering if it were really OK to eat on the train, but a perky young woman in a uniform came pushing a trolley of food down the aisle for sale, so we realized it was indeed acceptable. There was even alcohol available and Andrew bought a Asahi beer. It must be the climate because beer tastes especially good in Japan compared to our home in Vancouver! Our bento was good, and trying to decide what the things were entertained us for part of the trip.
Ekiben from Shinjuku Station (Photo credit: Luke Lai)
In only a few hours we arrived in Kyoto Station. We gathered our things and got to the platform, turning to watch the shinkansen slide off to its next destination. The shinkansen section was quite a distance from the main station building, which was a beautiful structure of soaring glass ceilings and lofty spaces.
Kyoto Station
There were people all around, but the clothes were less formal than the business suits that seemed ubiquitous in Tokyo. We felt less pressured as we searched for the exit and went outside to find our hotel, the Kyoto Tower Hotel Dai-Ni. We knew it was next to the Kyoto Tower, and that was easy enough to find, right outside the station front entrance! It was a very short walk, and should be very convenient for sightseeing.
The staff was welcoming. We found the room, which was a bit small but serviceable and quiet. We cleaned up and relaxed for a few hours, then decided to go explore. We wanted to see the geisha show in Gion. It was a fair distance, but we took our time and enjoyed looking at all the new places and things on the way to the theater.
Gion Hanamikoji-dori
Compared to Tokyo, the streets were wider and straighter. We found out that the city was planned as the imperial capital and built on a theoretical plan from China centuries ago, hence the formal layout. But it made it much easier to navigate, and it was not a problem to find Geisha Corner.
Geisha Gion Corner
Unfortunately the performance we wanted is only offered in the spring, so the girls were disappointed. They rapidly cheered up when walking down the narrow streets of the famous historical district. The traditional little shops and restaurants were beautiful. There was a canal with trees, branches drooping down to almost touch the water. We had a light meal at a little cafe, sitting and enjoying the view, before continuing on. As the sky started to darken towards evening, lights came on, doors opened to reveal little gardens, and paper lanterns glowed. It was almost magical in appearance. We didn’t see any geisha, but it was interesting to see this elegant district.
Gion Corner
One of my Japanese friends had recommended a tea store for dessert, so I steered our family in that direction. My friend told me it was on the second floor of a building in the arcades near Gion, but assured me that we would recognize it by the crowds.
Kyoto Gion
The arcade area was packed with visitors pushing to and from the shops. There were clothing stores and paper products, cafes and game centers. It was pulsing with life and activity, so I had almost given up when I found the place, Tsujiri. There was a tea shop on the first floor and a line leading up a staircase. Assured it was worth the wait, we stood until it was our turn.
Tsujiri desserts
The menu was all in Japanese, but the pictures were clear. We all chose the expensive specialty, a green tea parfait. When it came, we were shocked, It was huge. Not like the dainty Japanese sizes that most places serve. The parfait was layers of green tea ice cream, green tea pound cake, mochi rice balls, red beans, candied chestnuts, and more. The flavors balanced wonderfully and we unanimously voted that it was worth the wait. Andrew offered to help the girls finish theirs, but they made it through without assistance. No wonder my friend suggested this place. I would like to come back again and try some of the other dishes. There was even green tea soba and udon on the menu, though the restaurant specializes in desserts.
After that, we practically staggered back to the hotel. Tomorrow we will visit some shrines and temples and see more of this interesting city.
photos by:
*_* &
neepster,
iMorpheus,
dacheket,
David McKelvey,
Richard.Fisher,
Konstantin Leonov,
L'amande,
john weiss,
Gwydion M. Williams,
john weiss,
Binder.donedat,
macglee
