It felt good to change out of my business suit and into casual clothes again. The meetings with my client had gone smoothly, and now I was free to explore Kyoto for a few days on my own. I was in Japan last winter when it was freezing cold and clear, so the oppressive humidity and heat came as a bit of a surprise. Last visit I had done the usual tourist things, seeing famous temples and shrines, but this time I wanted a different experience.
I glanced back over the neat little hotel room to make sure that I had not forgotten anything, then took the elevator into Kyoto Station. One thing for sure about the Kintetsu Kyoto Hotel was that it was convenient! Even though it was directly above the station building, my room was quiet and comfortable. It was worlds away from the crowds filling the station, swarming like ants in all directions.
Gion Matsuri (Yoi-Yama)
The crowds were much greater than I had experienced last time, and my clients explained that the Gion Matsuri (祇園祭) is one of the biggest festivals in Japan, so tourism doubles in the month of July. I was just glad that my company let me tack a few extra days onto the end of the business trip so that I could experience it all in person. The night is known as yoiyama (宵山) on July 16 which was pretty cool.
I followed the bulk of the crowds out of the station and toward the center of Kyoto. My first destination was Shinmachi Street. I knew that the floats from the great procession would be on display there, and I was looking forward to seeing them after finding a few photos on the internet. What I had not realized was that there would be so much more than the floats. There were food stalls, vendors hawking souvenirs, stands selling o-mamori amulets, participants and visitors in kimono and traditional summer clothes, and musicians everywhere.
Gion Matsuri float
The noise was as overwhelming as the heat and crowds. Above the general buzz of conversation was the almost cacophonous festival music and chanting. Gongs, drums, wooden mallets, strings and flutes, I barely recognized any of the instruments. The music provided a background to the afternoon that will last in my memory of the day.
The floats were spaced along the street, and it was interesting to get up close and look at the ornate fabrics, lanterns, and other details. Some had elaborate dolls perched in the upper rooms, and others had whimsical creatures on the roofs. They were much bigger than I had imagined, easily two stories high, towering above the crowds so they were easy to see despite the throng.
Gion Matsuri stalls
I was also pleasantly surprised to find that many of the homes had opened their gates and had displays for visitors to see. It was such a treat to see behind the walls and gates into the homes themselves. Most were only open to the front entrance hall, with a display of artwork that looked very old and valuable. I could not imagine opening my home to such a crowd, much less showing off my family treasures! However, the tourists were all extremely respectful and did not trespass beyond the small rail or rope that the family had set up as a barrier. That trust was just as amazing to me as the beautiful painted screens, calligraphy hanging scrolls, kimono, and obi belts.
Byobu Matsuri
I was also interested in the architecture of the houses themselves. Though I could not see much of them, the dark wooden beams and ornately carved, wooden panels were lovely. A few places allowed glimpses into rooms with tatami floors and sliding screen walls. Even the boxes for storing shoes at the entrance were interesting to me! Some of the homes had small gardens with little ponds or lanterns, though no real place to sit and enjoy them. I wondered at that until I realized that they were meant to be viewed from the windows.
I found out later that this amazing show of family treasures is held every year as part of the Gion Matsuri. It is called the Byobu Matsuri, and runs on July 14 through 16 along with the display of floats. Apparently I came at the height of activity, the eve of the parade itself.
Gion Matsuri shop
I was able to spend the entire afternoon and evening walking around and enjoying the festival. Between looking at the floats, stopping to watch some of the performances, and seeing the homes, there was plenty to do. Instead of tapering off in the evening, the crowds became even denser and more boisterous as locals got off work and joined in. There was singing and dancing and plenty of alcohol flowing. The stalls and floats were lit up with paper lanterns, adding an exotic touch to the whole scene.
Gion-matsuri (Gion festival) 祇園祭 京都
When I got hungry, I tried different foods from the stalls. There was an interesting round fritter called takoyaki that people were lining up to order, made in a huge grill with round divots. I decided to try these, and found them to be savory hot balls filled with octopus and topped with sauce, mayonnaise, green onions, and flaky dried fish.
KYOTO DAYS ~ Gion-Matsuri Festival 祇園祭宵々山
Later I had some grilled yakisoba noodles and an ice cold beer, sitting on a bench covered with red felt that was placed behind the stall. It was fun to watch the crowds and relax there for a bit before continuing. I have always thought of shaved ice as a treat for kids, but adults were eating huge cups of it as well, so I decided to join it. I pointed at green, thinking it was lime, but found out that it was melon flavoring. But it was still refreshing in the summer night.
Yatai yummy food
I did not get back to the hotel until quite late. It was a very interesting and colorful afternoon. I was tired out from the crowds and the walking, but also full of energy and excitement. Next will be the Gion Matsuri parade itself tomorrow.
photos by:
Hyougushi &
Haversack,
Haversack,
rolenzo,
Ryosuke Yagi,
kubotake,
junog007,
whitefield_d
