Having read Memoirs of a Geisha, by Arthur Golden, I was suddenly enchanted with everything Japanese, from the fragrant, soft pink petals of the Japanese cherry blossoms, right down to the wooden shoes worn by the geisha and their apprentices, maiko. Soon I was planning a trip. What better time to go than spring, when the cherry blossoms are in their full glory! In bed at night, visions of geisha began to dance in my head. I began visualizing myself in Japan, photographing them.
Geisha are not necessarily prostitutes, as some may think. They are highly trained entertainers who perform for the rich and famous. Training as early as the tender age of five, geisha are well versed in the performing arts, from playing the three-stringed shamisen; to ikebana, the art of flower arranging; to ceremonial tea serving and dancing. A maiko may charge as much as $1000 for an evening’s entertainment. Geisha have dwindled over the years, and it is said that there are probably only around 20 actual geisha in Kyoto today. With this fact in mind, I felt an urgency to go and see for myself before they actually become extinct.
Immersing myself in Japan travel guides such as Fodor’s Japan, Lonely Planet Kyoto, and Jodi Cobb’s book, Geisha, I tried to acquire as much knowledge as possible to familiarize myself with the city of Kyoto. I searched the internet for hours, studying maps of the geisha districts and teahouses. A famous philosopher from the 1700’s once wrote, “A traveler without knowledge is like a bird without wings.” I’ve literally known how true this statement can be. After traveling to over 25 countries, most of these alone, I’ve come to realize that having some knowledge of the area and its culture is just as important as a sense of adventure.
I began this trip on Japan Airlines, on a direct flight from Chicago to Osaka. Upon arriving at Kansai Airport, I opted for public transportation. A cab would have cost over $100 US. Unable to acquire a room in Kyoto, I stayed in Osaka and commuted by train daily. This was the high season for tourists, and there were literally hoards of people there.
For 1300 Yen (about $12 US), I could take a hotel bus directly to the Miyako Osaka Hotel. The next morning I was hungry for a large breakfast, but soon found out that it would be out of the question, financially speaking that is. Hot coffee at the hotel would have been $7.00 US, an expensive breakfast considering it didn’t include food. I elected to stay in my room, wearing my complimentary cotton kimono, drinking complimentary green tea, and munching on the gummy bears I had brought for the adorable Japanese children I hoped to photograph. Oh, well. At least green tea is supposed to remove toxins from one’s body.
With map in hand, I headed toward the train station, which remarkably was located underneath the hotel. For $8.00 US I could travel to Kyoto with one transfer. Immediately a young Japanese businessman approached me and inquired where I was going. He escorted me to my final destination, Kyoto. Unbelievably, it was not his destination; he just had a genuine wish to assist me. I would soon find out just how hospitable the Japanese really are. Never before had I experienced such generosity. For every time I stepped on a bus, every time I took the subway, every time I took the train, a Japanese woman or man would insist on escorting me. I’m not sure if the reason behind this was because I was alone; I only know it happened on a regular basis.
Once arriving at Kyoto station I visited the Kyoto City Tourist Information Center for maps and general information. The guide had great difficulty understanding me and I them. Across the street in the Kyoto Tower Building, I visited the Japanese Tourist Information Center. Here sat an elderly Japanese citizen who took his time in answering all my questions. (This office also offers the “good will program,” where a Japanese student will spend the day with you at no charge as an interpreter. You just have to provide lunch and any expenses.)
When I told the old man that I had been photographing women of exotic cultures all over the world and that I hoped to photograph a geisha woman, he exclaimed that it would be very difficult, if not impossible, to find the elusive geisha. My heart began to sink. I asked if perhaps the cherry blossom trees in Maruyama-koen Park were in bloom? He explained that the cherry blossoms were late this year because of the severe winter Kyoto had suffered.
I asked for directions to a famous coffee house, Inoda, in the District of Gion. He politely informed me that it had burned down last year. Seeing my despair this sweet, elderly man took me by the arm and escorted me to a fabulous coffee house in the basement of Kyoto Train Station. After my caffeine fix, I took bus number 206 to the District of Gion, otherwise known for its famous teahouses and geisha sightings.
Read Part 2
