Slowly and watchfully walking down the street, I thought I caught a glimpse of a geisha in the corner of my eye. Was this my imagination? I ran ahead for half a block, set up my camera and composed myself. False alarm. Walking for hours, pacing back and forth through the streets, checking all adjoining alleys, and still I had seen no geisha. My disappointment and jet lag caught up with me. I was overcome by the thought that for the first time in my life, I might not be able to photograph what I had traveled so far to see.
Stopping on the corner, I walked into a restaurant and ordered a Coke. A woman from London was sitting next to me and started up a conversation. She said she had just seen a geisha three blocks from here. Immediately I paid the $5.00 for my Coke and took off.
The day so far had been a gloomy, cloudy one. I proceeded up the next three streets. Taking a left turn, I finally spotted my geisha. There she was, standing next to the canal, a cherry blossom tree in full bloom behind her. The clouds began to part and golden rays of light began to shine down. Something magical was about to happen. This was the moment.
For forty-five minutes she allowed me to photograph her from every angle. I will never know why this maiko or apprentice was so accommodating, but I did realize how fortunate I was, especially since this was my first day here. I found myself returning to this enchanting area over and over again.
Day two in Kyoto, I had my usual escort to Kyoto station and proceeded to take bus number 50 to Kinnkaku-ji Temple, otherwise known as the Golden Temple. Here I met Leo, an English teacher from the United States traveling with his parents. He had been living in Kobe for seven months teaching English and was astonished when I shared with him my experience from the previous day. We discussed safety in Japan, which is one of the safest countries in the world to travel in, especially for a woman traveling alone. Leo explained that if someone were to lose his wallet in Japan, it would probably have more money in it if it were found, for the person who found the wallet feels pity for the poor soul who lost it.
In the evening I returned to the District of Gion, this time sitting on the corner outside a popular teahouse and again, hoping against hope. Suddenly a geisha, not an apprentice, but a real live geisha darted out of the teahouse and headed down the street. In hot pursuit, I wondered, “How do they manage to walk so fast in those high wooden shoes?” I was able to photograph her from behind. The makeup detail on the back of her neck told me that she was a geisha, not an apprentice. Quickly she disappeared into the crowd. As I stood on the corner she reappeared and crossed the street right in front of me. I could now photograph her facing me.
Returning to the enchanting area where I had first spotted my maiko, I found that evening brought silhouettes of geisha entertaining in the teahouses above me, the soft breezes of spring carrying their infectious laughter into the streets. Suddenly one stepped out on the veranda and waved to me as I gazed up above.
Now that I had accomplished what I set out to do, there was one more self assignment I had given myself: To experience what it would be like to be a geisha. At the Kyoto City Tourist office, I had tried to explain this to one of their staff. A young Japanese woman gave me a paper with Japanese addresses on it. From there I returned to the District of Gion, searching up and down the main streets, down the alleys, stopping from time to time asking questions.
Finally I found a small office on the third floor of a building down a narrow dark alley. Three beautiful young Japanese ladies tried to communicate by sign language and a few words of mixed English and Japanese. Money exchanged hands. How much, I cannot say, for I would like to continue to be happily married.
I soon found myself standing naked in a tiny room. I had been stripped of everything, even my wedding ring. All valuables had been locked away. I was beginning to ask myself some serious questions. What am I doing here, and have I completely lost my mind?
I was given cotton bloomers and a camisole. This was authentic geisha underwear? My hair was then put in a net, and I was escorted to the mirror where a makeup artist applied white diagonal patterns to the back of my neck. I was being made up as a maiko. Another assistant took long strips of fabric and unfolded them. Then the makeup artist applied sensual red eyeliner, ruby red lipstick and pink eye shadow. Creamy white thick makeup was smeared over my entire face.
After each layer of clothing was added, I was bounded with these strips of cloth. As each strip of binding was added I become very claustrophobic and found my breathing labored. I wished I had eaten dinner. Finally I stepped into the tall wooden shoes with red velvet straps and white stocking feet. The entire process takes about an hour. I no longer recognized myself. Pictures were taken and I was advised they would be sent to me by air mail. I had fulfilled my geisha fantasy.
My final day in Japan I tried to take things at a slower pace and drink in my surroundings. On my way to the Ryoan-ji, a famous dry-landscaped rock garden, I met Zosa, a young 23-year-old Japanese woman who loved to sightsee and insisted on spending the rest of the day with me, even inviting me to her home.
Kyoto is jam packed with sights to see from temples, shrines, castles, and parks with cherry blossoms, to of course, the elusive geisha. Kyoto was one of the few cities spared by the World War II bombings. Perhaps that is why it reminds one of old Japan. With a newfound appreciation for tea ceremonies, flower arranging and the Japanese culture, I hope to return one day to see more of what this magnificent city has to offer.
Travel Details
Transportation
Trains are extremely efficient and there is always someone nearby to assist if you have any questions. Have the concierge at your hotel write down the directions for you. Carry a card with your hotel address in case you get lost, but that is half the fun. The subway and bus systems are an even more cost efficient way of traveling. A taxi may be more convenient for getting from point A to point B, but could be quite costly.
Helpful Organizations
There are many organized tours. I found the (JNTO) Japan National Tourist Organization to be quite helpful with a variety of tours. The Japanese Tourist Information Center located on the ground floor of the Kyoto Tower Building offers the good will program where a university student will volunteer to assist you in exchange for lunch and all expenses paid.
Hotels
Miyako Osaka Hotel is very conveniently located next to the train station. Depending on the season, this hotel can run anywhere from $100 to $200 US. There are several women only accommodations in Kyoto. The Rokuo in Temple is for women only and can run around 4500 Yen. The Toji-An Guest House is located about 10 minutes from the Kyoto Train Station. This is a dorm which runs around 2060 Yen. I heard rave reviews from other travelers about this place. Supposedly there is always a fresh pot of coffee here along with chocolates!
